I have a condo-Apartment in a High-rise building built in 2003. My condo is equipped with 2 water source AC unit (ClimateMasters with CMX/DMx control) 1 upstairs and one down stairs. Here is the Problem: The compressor at the downstairs unit shuts down after a few seconds after start up. The fan keeps running. You can hear the compressor starting up then shutting off. The filter is brand new. Is there a quick fix without calling the tech. Thanks for the help.
Remove the panel and inpect the LED for the trouble code and post it here. Be Careful 240 volts is present in this panel. You may have to use a screwdriver to jumper the 2 test terminals on the circuit board before a trouble code is displayed.
This pic might help...
Houston204, Thanks for the instructions. I did the test and here is what I got: Flash code 2 = 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. Pause. then the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so then the compressor switched off and the LED started fast flashing (locked). Then I turned the power off and did a regular restart. (no test mode this time) The LED light stayed on Then again the compressor kicked in for 10 seconds or so Then the compressor switched off The LED light started flashing slow. I hope this helps... Thanks again..
Your high pressure switch lockout is probably due to low water flow. Is the pump or valve that supplies water to your heatpump getting power? Post the model number of your unit. This is what the GS , GR, GC manual states for 2 flashes... High pressure switch: When the high pressure switch opens due to high refrigerant pressures, the compressor relay is de-energized immediately since the high pressure switch is in series with the compressor contactor coil. The high pressure fault recognition is immediate (does not delay for 30 continuous seconds before de-energizing the compressor).High pressure lockout code = 2Example: 2 quick flashes, 10 sec pause, 2 quick flashes, 10 sec. pause, etc.
Hello again Houston204, The model # is 30XG0N0B1. Here is what I think is going on: I came up with HP Fault-Code 2 There are 4 possible causes (According to Functional Troubleshooting Table). 1-Reduced or no water flow (very likely) 2-Water Temperature out of range in cooling (very unlikely) 3-Overcharged with refrigerant (very unlikely since the refrigerant is factory sealed and has not been touched) Here is my question: Is the water flow problem a building plumbing problem or is there a regulator in the unit that controls the water flow/pressure? thanks again,
The diagram shows a motorized valve between stat Y and heatpump Y. Some of my ClimateMaster diagrams show a pump here. Since you are in California, I just assumed that this is a cooling lockout. If this is a heating lockout, it could be a low airflow problem.
Fan keeps running, doubt is an HP fault in heat. Other Unit is working. As Houston said, is there a valve in the piping? Something has slowed/stopped water flow.
Hello again, So what is the best thing to do to get this thing fixed? Is there a valve to be replaced? Thanks
Locate the valve or pump that supplies water to your heatpump and verify that it is getting power when demand is present. Post the make model of this device for futher assistance. Pics might also help us help you. If replacement of this device is required, you would be better served getting a licensed and insured company to replace it. The potential damage that you can cause can easily be from the tens, to hundreds of thousands of dollars, if you attempt to replace a valve or pump in a high rise building.
Your building chief engineer would have the best recommendations for a company familiar with your building. They probably wouldn't replace it themselves do to this liability issue. If it is only a loose wire or minor electrical repair they may be of greater assistance.
Hello Houston, The qualified tech worked on it today here is what happened: My diagnosis was right and there is water flow problem. The CXM controller is working properly. The Temperatures at inflow and outflow are OK. He vacuumed the inflow and outflow and some rusty water was drawn out of the coil. The Problem did not fix He did more vacuuming and more vacumming... Still the problem did not go away Here is his recommendation: He thinks the flow regulator is stuck and not working He says replacing the flow regulator is a major work. It will take him a couple hours to replace the regulator since it is silver welded. He said he also has to locate a climatemaster regulator which might cost around $300-$400 (parts only). He will also have to run acid through the coil and that will take couple more hours. The total will run around $1100 to $1500. Does this sound right? Please advise... Thanks
No it doesn't sound right. A little heat and the flow reg is out. If the tech reads the manual, he can install a simple ball valve and manually regulate flow to climatemaster specs. Vac? If rusty water is being sucked out I think it would indicate no flow. I have never vaced a water coil. Flow reg screwed up I can agree with. Prices are very high. Melting silver brazing and removing a fitting, $400 parts only? $10 ball valve, set and forget.
Acid clean is not a couple ours. 5 gallon bucket with biodegradable muratic acid solution. Submersible pump, pumps the solution through the coil. Takes maybe (at a strech) an hour. Smoke is blowing here...
Hello Jarredsdad, Today the Tech for his work charged me $200. Just to let you know.. Thanks
Hello again Jarredsdad, The heatpump climatemaster model # is 81630GNPKSCOK. Is there really a flow regulator welded on the inflow side as the Tech stated? Thanks
Here is what the Chassis Serial # for my unit means: 816= Model Type Chassis 30=Unit Size G=Voltage (208-230/60/1) N=Options P-Control CXM K-6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator S-No Water Valve C-Copper Coax O-Standard K-Revision Level So according to these numbers there is a 6GPM Automatic Flow Regulator and there is no water valve or secondary pump in this unit. Now the question is Is the Automatic Flow Regulator really bad? and Is it really welded?
Here is some very interesting progress I made on water flow issue. I wanted to get a second opinion so that I could be sure before spending the $1500 cleaning and replacing the water flow regulator. Here is what happened. I brought in an electrician to check the controller. The controller checked to work what it is supposed to do. Then we tuned off the inflow and outflow valves and opened the fittings. Then we pulled out the chassis. Then we got a bucket and released the inflow water valve into it. The high pressure water rushed out into the bucket. The only problem was the water is dirty black and full of sediments (sand and tiny metal particles). The water was so much polluted with sediments and metal that we had a hard time closing the valve (basically the sediments were ceasing the valve). The bottom 3rd the bucket is full of sediments. So the problem is the water coming into the system. It probably has already damaged the regulators, valves or what so ever inside. So the conclusion is: It is the HVAC water tower for the building that caused my unit to go bad.
Tags: water, source, heat, pump, climatemasters, problem, water flow, pressure switch, Automatic Flow, Automatic Flow Regulator, flow regulator, Hello again, Here what, high pressure
Hi, I getting ready to install an gable attic fan and I was just wondering if anyone has any pros/cons in terms of going with a solor powered unit or a electric powered one. Thanks in advance.
I'm considering a solar attic fan as well. Not needing to pull the wires is of value to me. I'm curious what the experts have to say about the daytime-only running of the fan, as most attics stay hot well after sunset during the summer.
The primary purpose of an attic fan is to prolong the life of the roof. Heating deteriorates roofing shingles and the greater degree of heat, the greater degree of deterioration. In other words, if an attic fan reduces the average temperature of a roof by 20%, the roof shingles should lasts 20% longer than an average roof without an attic fan. This usually pertains well to certain types of constructed houses, like Cape Cods or finished attics. The secondary aspect of attic fans is that it will lower your cooling costs and/or make the house more comfortable in the summer. Both aspects are accomplished by what is known as convective heat transfer. This states that air that has a lower temperature than objects it comes in contact with, the lower temperature air will extract heat from the objects it comes in contact with, thereby lowering the temperature of the objects. With heating your home the exact opposite occurs. The objects inside the home extract heat from the heated air produced from the heating system. mrchris made a very good observation by stating that most attic stay hot well after sunset. The reason for this is the insulation in the attic. Insulation prohibits conductive heat transfer. As part of this process, the insulation retains a good deal of heat. Which results in most attic staying hot well after sunset during the summer. Both types of attic fans will induce the convective heat transfer which will extract the heat inside the insulation during the summer. The disadvantage to the solar attic fan is that it will run during the winter, unless you cover the solar panel or disconnect it. In the summer you do not want the insulation to retain that much heat because the hotter an object gets, the more heat that object will radiate. Which is the dominant heat transfer mechanism in the summer. The dominant heat transfer mechanism in the winter is conduction, which means you want the insulation to retain as much heat as possible. The implication here is, if the heating contractor sized your heating system properly which is influenced by how much insulation you have in your attic. And the solar attic fan induces a convective heat transfer in the attic, which will extract heat from the insulation. Thereby reducing the effectiveness of the insulation. On very cold days, your heating system may not be able to heat your home. By the way, the same applies to wind turbine attic fans.
Thanks for the advice Resercon.
Thanks Resercon. I'll make sure any solar fans I consider can be turned off in the wintertime.
My opinion: I think solar anything for the consumer is not worth a hoot! run the wiring, add a thermostat and an elec fan. fred
Forget the solar fans not worth a D** Solar pool heater's very very good. Been there did both. ED
Well, it was my wallet that settled the issue for me. $40 for an electric fan or $400 for a solar is a no-brainer for me.
I know you bought your electric fan but I just wanted to chime in with my understanding of this for future readers. If you buy a quality solar with a decent cfm, then they work fine. They are much more expensive initially but it is a one time cost. You do not have the annual electrical expense, I have been told to expect to pay 70-100 a year in electrical depending on your climate for an average attic fan. In four years your solar fan would be paid off in savings, assuming the figures are accurate, which is my experience with most high efficiency products. They are an investment that often take ~5 years to see a return. If you go electric, you should have a quality electrical fan installed with a high temperature shutoff so that it doesn't run when your house is on fire. Regarding the attic fan running in winter. If your attic is properly ventilated, then the fan is not pulling heat from the insulation but is pulling it from the attic air itself, not considered part of the interior house climate. A fan alone in any attic without a ventilation system (soffit vents or low roof vents) will pull climate from the house interior, sucking air conditioned air in the summer and heat in the winter through ceiling gaps. In Oregon, for example, if you have an attic fan based ventilation system, it needs to run in the winter because we need to pull the humidity out of a house. Humidity traps heat and traps cold, thereby causing most of the temperature problems attics have to begin with. Having soffit vents below that provide a fresh intake of air (not in contact with the insulation because of baffles and vent placement) provides the best scenario that doesn't pull air from the interior of the house yet provides a continuous stream of ventilation. If I am misunderstanding something here, please feel free to clarify.
6 years down in the caribbean .Know many that got solar power fans, Me to, all brands In boats and home. Talk about sun we had sun. None of them would put out are work as a fan should. my .02 cents ED
I think that winter is one of the more crucial times to have proper attic ventilation. Think about all the moisture vapor that travels up through the cracks and holes in the vapor barrier and condenses in the cold attic without a good system to exhaust it to the outside. You need ventilation year 'round for different reasons, but what it comes down to is having a properly balanced system. If you have a small attic with little net-free area and you put in a monster CFM fan, of course it will pull air out the insulation and even your house. But if you have sufficient intake (preferably soffit) ventilation to match the fan's output, then you have a system that will function well any time or season. The only drawbacks to a solar fan is that it won't handle much more 1000 sqft of attic area and will only work when the sun is out. But the advantages are quiet DC motor operation, no operating cost and ease of installation. Bottom line is, it's the owner's decision that largely depends on a particular situation and need. I have a solar fan on my small attached garage roof, where I used to get water in the ceiling from moisture condensing on the cold air duct. Obviously, when AC was on on a hot sunny day. Ever since the fan installation - problem gone.
Your better electric fans will come with not just a thermostat, but a humidistat. Think about it, it's really meant to control both heat and moisture build-up.
Just had to jump in to this thread. I am the maker of the leading solar-powered attic fan. I'm not trying to promote it here, but I can offer a website upon request. A few thoughts: As for winter operation in a warm climate, Ishmael hit the nail on the head with this comment: Having soffit vents below that provide a fresh intake of air (not in contact with the insulation because of baffles and vent placement) provides the best scenario that doesn't pull air from the interior of the house yet provides a continuous stream of ventilation. In other words, let the fan run year round. Solar attic fans will regulate themselves in the winter because the sun is not as intense. Simply put, the same intensity that causes sunburns is the same energy that makes a solar panel operate at full power. The gentle winter operation is just enough to keep air moving through the attic to keep it fresh. The benefits of keeping fresh air circulating year-round are many. An attic with good ventilation will save on cooling costs, extend the life of shingles, keep the insulation from losing it's effectiveness, protect roof sheathing, make the hvac equipment last longer, and keep the attic from having a stale smell. Another benefit is cost. A $40 electric fan will require an electrician to properly install it. Most electricians we have interviewed across the country want from $150 - $250 just to hook them up properly. Now the $40 electric fan is more like a $300 fan, and it can cost up to $20 a month to run it. Because the solar fan is it's own mini electric generation station, the power is free. Once the initial investment of say $400 has been paid, the unit operates at no cost to the homeowner. Plus, they are very easy to install by any roofer or handyman. Thanks for letting me put my two-cents in.
I had read that having an attic fan operate during the winter months, it could help prevent ice jams forming on the roof. Any truth to that? I live in Chicago and have a problem with ice jams.
That theory comes about because in a properly vented attic the snow won't melt and later refreeze causing the ice dam. Properly insulating the living space from the attic along with proper attic ventilation will be a better idea. You need the incoming attic ventilating air coming in at the base of the roof (soffit) and exiting at the ridge or as close to the ridge as practicable. The idea is to keep the underside of the roof at the same temperature as the great outdoors.
Thanks. I will look into putting vents in the soffit.
Tags: solar, electric, gable, attic, heat transfer, attic fans, contact with, extract heat, heat from, after sunset, convective heat, convective heat transfer, during summer, extract heat from
I have a 26 CF side by side Refrigerator. It is not cooling on the refrigerator side. The freezer side is still putting cool air around 40 digrees. Everything seems to be working but not cooling. I would like to try to fix it myself before calling the Pros. Any ideas you intelligent folks out there? It is a whirlpool model #ED27RQXXW. Thaks
We just did a very similar case from ted_he right in this forum. Read it over it may help. It is not always the heater but it is likely. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=221583 Here is a link to your ref at the site http://www.partselect.com/MultiModel...RefineSearch=0 And the heater if it turns out to be the part #33 http://www.partselect.com/WSchematic...l/BBISYTNG.gif. It is a good idea to look at the coils.
Thanks for a quick response. This forum is very helpful to person like me who has not attempted this kind of repair before. Does the heater come out easily? If yes how? Also how do I know if the heater is bad? I took the panel off. There was a lot of ice build up on the condenser. Is th heater bad that is why the ice buildup? I scraped some of the ice off. I have unplugged the Ref for overnight. Will see what happens tomorrow.
Either let it defrost or use a hair dryer. The heater comes out easy once there is no ice. Looks like yours has 4 clamps.You'll have to see when you can. To test the heater unplug the refrigerator and remove the wires and check the heater for continuity[resistance] and make sure it is very low resistance. If it is bad it will show a huge number meaning current cannot flow and it will not heat up. Kind of like a light bulb. If you look a bad one the filiment is broken so it can't heat up and glow. Do a google search for -test for continuity- if you don't know check it. You need a meter[cheap one]
Thanks again for a super fast response. I realy appreciate it very much. Does the heater looks like a black 1/4 dia wraps arounds the sides and the bottom of the condenser? If yes, do I have to remove the condenser to separate the heater? Thanks
That is the evaporator not the condenser. You do not need to remonve the evaporator to get it out. your heater is a U shaped element. It is part # 33 on the pic at partsselect.com http://www.partselect.com/WSchematic...l/BBISYTNG.gif Match the part on your ref with Part #33. It sounds like the part you describe. Keep in mind that although the heater was the problem in the other thread it is not the only thing that could cause your problem. Part # 35 in the same pic could be it or it could be the defrost timer. It would be a good idea to advanve the timer before dismantleing the heater. Before you do any removing check this part. It is #6 on the diagram. You need to use a small screwdriver to advance it into defrost mode. There is a slot. turn it clockwise till it clicks. It is now in defrost mode. The heater should come on . However that part I mentioned #35 is in the circuit and it will not allow the heater to come on if it is not cold enough in the freezer. I should have told you to do this first. My bad. You can still check the heater if you want it may be the problem. It would be a good idea to do it now. Then when it ices up or gets cools enough you can advance the timer and see what happens. You could bypass the thermostat but don't. Here is the defrost time click on the pic to see where it is. It looks like it is where you turn the dials to make it colder. http://www.partselect.com/MultiModel...RefineSearch=0
Thanks once again. Where is the defrost timer located, in side the freezer or down below near the compressor?
In where you keep the milk.It looks like you have to take off the cover where you turn the dials to make it colder.
Inside the Refrigerator compartment under the control panel look for a 3/8 hole for a screw driver.
Not sure take the panel off for the thermostate. There are 4 white screws that more likely hold the whole panel including the light fixture. There are two other holes. One is blocked and the other has something about 1/4 dia RED knob. Appears to be for some adjustment. Not sure what.
No. He is talking about the heaters thermostat inside the freezer comp. 1-1/8 diameter two wires one going to the heater.
I am asking about location of defrost timer and get to it. JONEQ said it is located in the refrigeration section, near the controls. I am not able to locate the screw or screws to remove the panel to located the timer. While looking for the timer, I found the the only red knob about the size of 1/4 with appears to be a slot for philips screw driver.
Joneq From your response it appears that may be I need to look at the timer first before attempting to replace the heater. Any idea get to the timer?
Gwiz said to look under the control panel[without removing anything] for a hole to put your screwdriver in and turn till it clicks. The freezer has to be cold for the heater to come on so if the freezer isn't cold and you advance the timer and the heater doesn't come on it may still be good so make sure that the freezer is cold.
I just tested heater with an ohm meter and it appears to be fine. There was another part near the heater about an inch in Dia with pink and brown wire with red connector at the other end. Not sure what this part is and test it.
Forgive me if I appear to be slow following you guys direction. You both have provide very clear direction, it is I who is taking a while gettin it. I believe the 1 1/8 dia part with pink and brown wire and red connector at the other end is heaters thermostat since one of the wires is connected to the heater. Is there a way to test the heaters thermostat ? Also earlier in my response I wrote about the red knob with place for phillip screw. I think this is the defrost timer you guys are talking about. I have plugged the refrigerater and am going to let it run overnite before testing the defrost timer.
If it is connected to one if the wires that goes to one side of the heater it is the thermostat. This allows current to flow to the heater only when the refrigerator is cold enough to need defrosting. When it is not cold it is open and the heater will not come on. It's purpose is to turn the heater off in case the timer does not. When the freezer warms up it will open and cut the current to the heater. If you find the defrost timer and advance it and the heater comes on,assuming the freezer is cold enough, then the defrost timer is bad because it didn't do it by itself you had to advance it. If the heater doesn't come on I would vote for the thermostat in the freezer. It is stuck open. Before you buy anything wait till some else verifies this. I am not a mechanic but I know enough. You need to advance the timer and you need to do it when the compressor is running. When it goes into defrost mode the compressor will turn off and the heater should come on. I wish I could help you more with finding these things but I can't. There should be access to the timer without removing anything. You need to look around for the hole that Gwiz was talking about.
the timer will have a slot for a slotted screw driver not a phillips.
Something in this link my help you. You should read the full link. If you don't at least start at post #20 http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=212796
I'm guessing the heater is 500 watts. you can look at the label that states the power requirements, it may state the heaters watts. 500 watt heater will have an resistance of 28 ohms. You can take the heater to a TV shop, ask them to check the resistance for free. it will only take 2 seconds. If its over 75 ohms I would say its bad. 75 ohms it about 200 watts.
After I plugged the refrigerator last night, it started working. Freezer side was cold this morning. The temp in Freezer side was little over 40 Deg and Refrigerator was 68 deg. The Refrigerator does not feel very cold. I then advanced the timer, and a few minute later heater came on. It cycled a few minutes, heater turned off and rest of the cycle started. Is there another test for timer? Does it sounds like the drfrost timer? Or shoul I check something else. Thanks
If the freezer was defrosted last night when you plugged the ref back in it should have been very cold in the freezer this morning. Is the fan working in the freezer when the compressor comes on, and if you turn the cold control dial to it's lowest setting[while the compressor is running] does the compressor turn off.
Yes the freezer was very cold. It showed 40 Deg this morning may be not cold enough to freeze things there. And yes the fan is working. The compressor did turn off when I turned refrigerator control dial all the way to the left. The ice appears to be building on the evaporator coils. Actually the temp in freezer is about 48 deg
I am concerned that it is not colder in the freezer. did you put the cover on the back last night. Are all the coils covered with at least some frost
I did not put the cover back on. Yes all of the coils are cover with a thin layer of ice except the heater.
put the dial so that it is on the coldest setting to make the compressor come on then advance the timer just till the compressor stops and see if the heater still turns off after a few minutes.
when the heater defrosts the coils the water drains into a tray below the heater what does it look like? is it empty?
Yes to both of your questions. I turned the dial all the way to coldest and then turned the defrost timer manually. The heater came on and melted the ice. I saw the water dripping. After a few minutes the refrigerator cycle started again. Yesterday before I plugged the ref there was a lot of water in the tray. I vaccumed it out. I am sure there is water from the defrosting. I will check and let you know. And yes ther is some water in the tray, clear water, not too much.
the tray may be plugged up. clean out the hole in the bottom of it. I GUESS the defrost thermostat is turning off the heater since it is not too cold in there. I suggest clearing the drain and defrosting the freezer so it is free of ice[hair dryer].And see what happens I am still not nuts about the low temp in the freezer. It should freeze food. If you free it of ice and put the cover back and the defrost timer is not working the freezer will get cold enough to freeze food and the ref will get cold too. Normally if the defrost timer is not working it will take a number of days3,4,5-- for enough frost and ice to build up to affect cooling. Your freezer is not getting cold enough for me. I am not a real mechanic so I would wait for some one more knowledgable than me to verify what I say. I would defer to them. I hesitate to tell you to get a timer. If your ref is not getting cold enough why would defrosting it help if there is not so much frost on the coils that cooling would be affected.
After I manualy advanced the timer and heater came on, all of the ice had melted before the cycle ref started. You asked me to check the trey. Does the trey collects water that sits there until the user drains it? As I stated there was a little water in the tray. Did you mean to check the hole where the water is draining from the Frig into the trey?
Yesterday before I plugged the ref there was a lot of water in the tray There should not be a lot of water in the tray. It is self draining and you do not have to do anything if it is working right. The hole needs to be clear all the way to under the refrigerator. If the coils are now free of ice and frost----put the cover on and set the controls to the middle. As I said before if the timer is not working it will take a few days to affect cooling. It should get down to zero or close to it in the freezer even if the heater does not come on. The compressor should run for quite a while while it is bringing the temperature down.
The temp in freezer is 60 deg. I still have the cover off. I am checking the temp in the ref and it is 70 deg. not sure why it is not getting colder than that both in freezer and ref. Does the cover removed makes the difference? Also should I clean the condenser coils more. There is some lint/dust on some of the coils.
turn the cold control to the coldest setting to turn on the compressor[it should be running constantly though] then unplug the ref and plug it back in immediately. does the compressor come back on.
I rutned both of the controls to coldest setting and then unplugged the Ref and plugged back on, The compressor started running, but made a little clicking noise fore very few seconds. When I moved the thermomometer to the lowest part of the freezer it was reading below 35 deg. not sure why soo much difference.
it started running and kept running. Also how long was it running before you unplugged it? Is it running constantly? If it is unplug it and plug it in again. Is the compressor hot or warm
It has been running since last night when I plugged it. Only turned off when I manually switched the timer. I feels very hot and appears to be constantly running. The temp inside REf and Freezer is fluctuating a lot.
That is not good. It is not cooling enough to satisfy the cold control. There could be a blockage too but you can't fix that. How old is the ref.
did you clean the coils under the ref. Turn it off first. Make sure the fan underneath the ref is working too
about 13-14 yrs from the date stamped on it.
Did you clean the coils under the ref and make sure that fan is working
My wife and I and our 4 children (20 - 11 y.o.) just bought and moved into a 1975 semi-detached house that doesn't have a water softener (it used to have one, the pipe fittings are there from what looks like a previous one). Our water is quite hard and we can't use our dishwasher without white film appearing on the dishes (we've been told this will eventually etch our ceramic dishes and then there's just the hassle of wiping off of the dishes and the build-up effect on the pipes and taps). Water hardness in this area is 28 - 30. We were told we will need 60K grain unit. Our plumber installs Novatek Residential Water Softeners ( http://www.watergroup.com/water_softeners.htm ). This is a Canadian company. We know next to NOTHING about water softeners and are wondering what you Canadians/Ontarioans know about water softeners available in this area. On the website there are the comparisons between the two softeners they make. QUESTIONS: What should we be looking for in a good softener? Does anyone have experience with any of the Novatek models? Thanks, Dave
Looking at the Novatek website, they tell you essentially nothing about their products that one could use to make a quality judgement about the equipment. The heart of any softener is the valve head. Basically, everyone uses the same softening resin, so there is no difference there. The best valve heads are made by Fleck or Clack, and the best on the market, IMO, is the Clack WS-1 valve head. Many of the off-brand softeners (like Novatek?) use less reliable and harder to repair designs than the Clack (speaking from experience!). I have installed several Clack softeners for myself and friends (no, I don't sell softeners) that were bought on the internet with excellent results. If you google 'Clack WS-1' you will find several companies that will ship systems to you at reasonable prices, usually much less than what the local sales people want. Some assembly is required (it's pretty easy), or you can have your plumber do the assembly and install. If you want to contact me directly, I'd be happy to tell you the one firm I have bought from and am very pleased with.
I'm interested!
Many internet and mail order softener sellers in the US don't ship to Canada but these people do... xxxxxxxxxxxxxx They offer quality, industry standard products and they know their stuff plus they are really nice to deal with. Call them up and inquire about the cost for shipping to Canada. Ask for CK Moore, nice guy.
Gary with his biz in PA DOES NOT ship to Canada and neither does CK Moore. But, yes, Gary seems like a great supplier! I'm continuing to pursue his quote.
daveinkitchener, A word to the wise, things are not always as they seem. I would expect that you should be able to find a water treament company in Canada that offers the same product selection and reasonable prices as Ohio Pure Water Co. offers in the US. I expect that warranty and support would be much easier if you purchase from a Canadian dealer.
Here's a Canadian company that appears to be similar to US internet sellers... xxxxxxxx
Let's chat it up!
daveinkitchener, Hi Dave. Sorry that links have been deleted from this forum. There are rules that prohibit soliciting or proselytizing. There have been members who, knowing that they are not supposed to steer others towards certain business interests, wind up being banned from the forum. We are basically supposed to give generic information and preferences (without being rude or attacking others’ perspectives). Canada has scores of dealerships and professionals that would be happy to help you. Hope you do yourself right and get quality equipment at a respectful price. Andy Christensen, CWS
Tags: novatek, water, softeners, ontario, canada, about water, about water softeners, Canadian company, Clack WS-1, expect that, have been, reasonable prices, ship Canada
We had a pipe spring a leak behind the bathroom sink in the wall which has allowed water under the laminate floor in adjoining closet. Leak detected and repaired within 24 hrs of onset. Have noticed some of the laminate section edges with a slight curl and you can see water in the seams. We're trying a dehumidifier in the closet with the door closed to pull as much moisture up as possible. Has anyone been successful drying up the floor this way without removing the flooring? It's a laminate floor floated on a concrete slab. Or are we wasting time and should just pull up, replace it?
Wasting time. Laminate should never be used in a kitchen or bathroom. You now going to have mold growing under the flooring. Tile would have been a far better choice and would add value to the room not lower it like laminate.
I assume the adjoining closet is in another room. You will need to remove the laminate as soon as you can as it will never dry out. You should start removing it from the closet until you find dry floor. If the damage is extensive your home insurance might cover repair costs but you have to do it soon as insurance companies do not normally pay for mold remediation.
I would use a multi tool and cut the laminate at the inside threshold of the closet and remove all the closet laminate. Hopefully it will have sequestered itself in that area. If so, you can always re-lay the closet independently of the adjoining room. Laminate is a sponge so you have to get to it rather quickly. I have never heard of an insurance company not paying for mold remediation due to water damage they covered.
Yes, the area affected is a 8x10 walk in closet for the bedroom. I pulled up the corner piece right at the spot closest to the leak in the wall. It was bone dry as was the underlayment and the floor. We had run an industrial size dehumidifier for about 20 hrs in there with the door closed. Temps reached 90 degrees in there and humidity dropped from about 50% to 33%. I have that corner laminate area kinda propped up now with a fan blowing, circulating air under it. We are seriously considering just replacing the piece I gouged some when I pulled it up, reinstalling the quarter round and calling it good. I will watch the area for a few days first to look for any mold growth. What does it usually look like? How obvious is it?
Your not going to see the mold growing. It's going to be spreading under the flooring.
You said a leak has allowed water under the laminate floor in adjoining closet. You need to be sure how much water. If a couple of tablespoons then it's no big deal but if it was a bucket full then the floor will not dry out. A good investment would be a contact moisture detector which would cost less that fifty bucks for a simple one and tell you if the floor is dry or not.
Laminate floated on concrete requires an underlayment with a built in vapor barrier. Given that, and the fact that the water will seep to the lowest available location first, I thing that the OP is OK to peel back the flooring and dry underneath as most of the moisture will be under the vapor proof underlayment. I would pull the underlayment, let the slab dry, install new underlayment and put the floor back together. No doomsday scenarios in this case.
Even though the floor appears dry now, I'm leaning towards pulling up most if not all the closet flooring as a precaution. I can get 100 sq ft of same flooring for about $200 I think. Anything I need to do to the interior wall area where the leak was? It's dry now also. Also, I can't see under the vanity with the cabinet floor. The water never was visible on the floor more than some in the seam cracks, none covered the surface. Is that more descriptive of the size of the leak?
Tags: laminate, water, damage, adjoining closet, laminate floor, allowed water, allowed water under, allowed water under laminate, allowed water under laminate floor, door closed
I know there are some enginerds around here. I want to build a loft at the back of the shop. It is 5 feet deep, and 25 feet wide. If at all possible I want to build it without any columns in the middle. What kind of beam would I need to support this thing across the front? I made a quick drawing with Google Sketchup to help. Just copy and paste into a browser window. http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3458/garageloftgm0.jpg Is it possible?
Just a nail driver, but the span tables I refer to indicate you can build a glued laminated 2x4 beam with a height of 9 1/2 to span 28'. Now, LVL will be a little more expensive, but easier to handle. I would opt for the LVL. Transporting it will be a bear. You can site build the 2x4 glued laminated beam.
Originally Posted by chandler Just a nail driver, but the span tables I refer to indicate you can build a glued laminated 2x4 beam with a height of 9 1/2 to span 28'. Now, LVL will be a little more expensive, but easier to handle. I would opt for the LVL. Transporting it will be a bear. You can site build the 2x4 glued laminated beam. LVL? Is that an engineered beam? Not familiar with the term. I have a trailer and can transport it no problem. Maybe that would be the best thing to do. Any site you can point me to that would show me build a laminated beam? Making it from 2x4s Would it be 7 2x4s laid on top of each other with the ends staggered? That would make it 9 x 3.5 or so. Would it be better to build from larger stock, three 2x10s sandwiched together or something? Where can I find those span tables?
Sorry, LVL stands for laminated veneered lumber, and is manufactured using thin layers of wood glued and pressed under heat until it is cured. Be prepared, as you will need a 25' trailer to haul it on as it comes in one piece. Site building a laminated beam would make more sense, as you state, 7 glued and nailed 2x4's in a staggered pattern will make up the structural integrity in the span tables. Using a larger dimension lumber will only make it too heavy to handle, and its own added weight will have to be calculated into the total weight of the loft, so minimizing the lumber to what the span tables recommend would be in your best interests. I use the tables in a reference book I have in my office, but I just googled live load span tables and got several sites with good information.
Originally Posted by chandler Sorry, LVL stands for laminated veneered lumber, and is manufactured using thin layers of wood glued and pressed under heat until it is cured. Be prepared, as you will need a 25' trailer to haul it on as it comes in one piece. Site building a laminated beam would make more sense, as you state, 7 glued and nailed 2x4's in a staggered pattern will make up the structural integrity in the span tables. Using a larger dimension lumber will only make it too heavy to handle, and its own added weight will have to be calculated into the total weight of the loft, so minimizing the lumber to what the span tables recommend would be in your best interests. I use the tables in a reference book I have in my office, but I just googled live load span tables and got several sites with good information. Thanks. That gives me somewhere to start.
Any changes to structure require submitting plans to Building Code Office and getting permits and require submission of plans. Unless you live in the hinterlands where codes are not enforced, this is a requirement.
Chandler, Can you double check your span table for the 3-1/2 by 9-1/2 beam. I quickly punched some numbers into a calculator for deflection and it did not look good for a 28' span (I easily could have made a mistake). First, I was fairly liberal with a 40 psf total floor load (or 100 plf) and E = 2000 ksi; the deflection was about 2-3/4. With a little more conservative guesses of 50 psf and E = 1600 ksi, the deflection was over 4. Notes: psf - pounds per square foot plf - pounds per linear foot E - Modulus of Elasticity, a property of the material. Some times it is abbreviated so E 2.0 = 2000 ksi. ksi - kips per square inch (kip = 1000 lbs)
Originally Posted by Phil H Chandler, Can you double check your span table for the 3-1/2 by 9-1/2 beam. I quickly punched some numbers into a calculator for deflection and it did not look good for a 28' span (I easily could have made a mistake). First, I was fairly liberal with a 40 psf total floor load (or 100 plf) and E = 2000 ksi; the deflection was about 2-3/4. With a little more conservative guesses of 50 psf and E = 1600 ksi, the deflection was over 4. Notes: psf - pounds per square foot plf - pounds per linear foot E - Modulus of Elasticity, a property of the material. Some times it is abbreviated so E 2.0 = 2000 ksi. ksi - kips per square inch (kip = 1000 lbs) Thanks for looking out! My span is 25 feet, so that may make a bit of difference.
PhilH, the tables I was consulting allowed 51 psf load and a span of 24', and a reduced 32 psf with a span of 28'. Now, I wouldn't recommend this to be the only support in the loft by any means. I still advocate the LVL, although unwieldy.
Correct me if I missed something but what are your building dimensions again? 25' x ? Make sure you aren't running the joists the wrong way, but if 25' is the shortest run, you may want to look into open joists which are incredibly strong. Check out this link for span info: http://www.ufpi.com/product/oj/prod/faq.htm
Originally Posted by carouse2 Correct me if I missed something but what are your building dimensions again? 25' x ? Make sure you aren't running the joists the wrong way, but if 25' is the shortest run, you may want to look into open joists which are incredibly strong. Check out this link for span info: http://www.ufpi.com/product/oj/prod/faq.htm 25' long, 5' deep. There is a link in my original post that will take you to a drawing of what I want. Looking at the page you posted. Very interesting. Looks like for a 25' span I would need 14 tall open joists, though? I'm loosing a lot of space quick. With some sort of beam it looks like I can save a few inches.
According to my KeyBeam software I use regularly, a quad 1-3/4x11-7/8 LVL will be adequate. This will give you an L/703 with a .42 of deflection. I set the loading to L/480 240 and 40 live 10 dead.
Originally Posted by chandler Just a nail driver, but the span tables I refer to indicate you can build a glued laminated 2x4 beam with a height of 9 1/2 to span 28'. Now, LVL will be a little more expensive, but easier to handle. I would opt for the LVL. Transporting it will be a bear. You can site build the 2x4 glued laminated beam. What kind of glue would you use on a this kind of beam? Construction adhesive? carpenters glue? Thanks
Tags: beam, need, span tables, laminated beam, build glued, build glued laminated, build glued laminated beam, glued laminated, glued laminated beam, little more, Originally Posted, beam with, beam with height
I had the furnace guy come out to do a check-up on my furnace. He told me that the flue baffle in my heating chamber is hanging when it should be welded horizontally. He informed me that this could not be fixed and the only resolution is to purchase a new furnace. I find it hard to believe I have to spend thousands of dollars when this should be a $10 part. Does this sound believable? Can I fix the baffle? What if I just remove the baffle? He told me that the purpose of the baffle is to keep too much heat from going into the chimney and that the furnace would be inefficient without the baffle. My furnace is a 1980 Williamson 1117 Highboy Gas furnace.
call another tech and get his opinion. 22 years old tells me efficiency and reliability may be below standard, am not familiar with williamson enough to avvise on the baffle, but we had one in the 70's, when i was a kid, a 5 in 1, good unit, as we never needed repairs, just a yearly service.
I've been around a few Williamson Furances myself. Williason use the Wraparound design heat exchanger. There is a small baffle inside the middle heat exchanger. Did you see for yourself what the baffle looks like? If not, there is a a couple of ways to look in. Remove the Silver door that has a peek hole to see the flame, and shine a flash light and a mirror and look for yourself. Wish I could post a picture of the heat exchanger. www.furnace.com/oil_furnace.html This picture is the lowboy, and Oil. Yours would be with out the oil gun, and the blower will be under the heat exchanger. Does yours have a single opening with a single burner that has a bowl shape burner? If this guy is saying the baffle is hanging on it's own, Does he mean the 2nd heat exchanger that wraps around and exhast to the front? Williamson Furances are good furnaces, and last a long time. My parents just retired thiers a few years ago for a new one.. There was nothing wrong with thier Williasmson. it just was undersized for the largly added on two story home. My grandparents stil got the 5-in-1 and still working like a charm! So, check for yourself DWS, or call in another guy and see what he has to say. Keep us posted on what happens! ;-)
Thanks for the link Jay! I dug around the website and found out that Willaimson is a unit of Weil-McClain. Phone # for Williamson is 1-800-736-2378. Perhaps calling them directly and presenting your situation to a tech rep type person would yield an accurate answer. My gut reaction is you should be able to continue to use the furnace, but I don't really know enough about that design to give you a soilid answer. We're all curious to hear what they say.
The old coal and oil furnaces used to have a baffle that did what yours does. Just to prevent the free flow of gases toward the chimney. It disrupts flow and forces more contact with the heat exchanger. The oil ones were the size of a pizza pan and they were suspended by a chain roght over the combustion chamber. Sometimes they would burn away or the chain would break. The only problem that caused was when the 20 lb. plate came crashing down into the combustion chamber. We would pull it out and clean up the mess and start the unit up again. Some ran for years without the baffle. No big deal. It might save 5% of your heating bill. Maybe. So if you took 5% of your annual bill and figured how long it would take to pay for a new furnace out of that savings, you would be lucky to be alive (old age) by the time you got return on investment. Usually it is a burn through on the heat exchanger that requires replacement or some major mechanical expense.
I called Williamson today to satisfy my own curiosity. They described the heat exchanger design as probably being shaped like a tall can with the baffle suspended above the burners and tack welded at 4 [or possible more] points around the heat exchanger. Their concern is, if the welds have broken away, it could leave a hole in the heat exchanger at that spot. They wouldn't commit to saying that, if the heat exchanger is intact, then it would be ok to continue to use the furnace. I'm inclined to agree with KField, if the heat exchanger isn't compromised, just continue to use it as is. A second opinion and very close examination of the heat exhanger might be in order.
I found that link last spring when I was serching on Williamson. I've been a big fan of the Williamson Line when I was younger. I've dreamed of being a Williamson Dealer myself, and have a FULL showroom with every model set up! I would have a Gas-Saver set up and running on the sales floor showing people the dual stage heating it has to offer! Yes, they had them back then! My dad used to work for a Williamson Dealer in the 70's, and I tagged along with him a few times when they installed them.. I recalled when both side of my grandparents got thier Oil-Saver installed.. Piece by piece! It was a HUGE unit. but it did it's job for them! My parents had to retire thier 20years old Temo-O-Matic 5 years ago since it was way undersized for new 2 story added on My dad's parents has a 5-in-1 put in the mid 80's when they moved to town from the farm. The 5-in-1 was my dream furnace to have in my home! (Still is if they still made them!!! LOL) Looking at the web sight, the Oil is the same style as the older Williamson.... But, not the gas, and A/C unit.. I wonder who makes them??
Hey guys, I have a brick garage non-insulated with dimensions 20'Lx10'wx8'h, I have been told I will need something in the vicinity of 30k BTU's so I am looking around for an electric heater with these features: 1] Quiet or very low noise 2] With on/off shut off automatic thermostat control 3] Very efficient to keep electric bill to a minimum I have been told that the torpedo type heaters are best for this since they will heat up a room within minutes then the thermostat control will auto shutoff when room reaches desire temp and turn itself on again when temp drops so no need to manually do anything and the heater will not have to be on all the time using up too much electricity? Can anyone recommend an electric heater for this please?
No such critter in my opinion. All electric heaters are efficient but the electric costs an arm and a leg. Certainly a fan is beneficial to move the room air through the heater and a thermostat to shut it off when desired temperature is reached but there are no magic bullets just simple physics. It takes x number of BTUs to heat Y number of square feet. Insulation and effective sealing to prevent air infiltration can help.
I agree with ray-----first try to get as much insulation blown-in/installed in the walls ceiling; I would avoid torpedo heaters; they're noisy the fuel fumes will drive you right out of the garage; they're really designed for outdoor construction sites; if you have nat gas forced hot air in the house, is the garage close enough to run a gas line install a 60 btu gas furnace, without the ducts----or an overhead gas/fan Beacon-Morris unit. Click onto Residential Products to see the garage heater. Beacon/Morris Kickspace Heaters, Hot Water, Heat, Steam, Oil, Gas, Hydronic.
No, the garage is far away from the house and we would have to dig the concrete to run a gas line. I have using a K1 kerosene heater but at $6 per gallon [I usually spend $40 per month] plus having to walk on eggshells with that in the middle of the room is a pain so I am looking for an alternative, I am thinking propane if not electricity but don't know which propane heater to get which can run off a 20lb tank?
Very rough calculation would be to multiply your electric rate by ten and that would be the cost of heating the garage in the temperatures used to calculate that 30,000 BTU/hr. heat loss. Example: If your electric rate is 15 cents per kilowatt hour then the cost to heat the garage would be close to $1.50 an hour in the coldest period. $1.50 an hour is $36 a day, $252 a week or $1,080 a month. Of course if the outside temperature is higher than the design temperature the costs will be less, but still most likely astronomic. Further, 30,000 BTUs/hr. would be approximately a 10 kilowatt heater and that requires a 60 ampere 240 volt circuit.
well, sorry I should have mentioned that we don't use the heater every day, we only use it on a weekend to hang out for 8 hours at a time so what I would need to calculate is how much it would cost per 8 hours of electricity? If I were to compare this to the existing kerosene cost which cost 10-12 dollars for an 8 hour period then the electricity at 1.50 per hour would be 12 dollars per 8 hours amounting to the same thing and I am guessing propane would end up costing around the same too? If that is the case then my thinking is why not use an electric or propane instead to get rid of the problems associated with the kerosene heat?
Here is a cost comparison calculator you can use for different fuel costs per BTU. Warmair.com - Fuel Cost Comparisons Substitute your costs for the kerosene and your total electrical cost (including any taxes and wheeling costs) per kilowatt hour and then you can see if electricity would be less expensive. Do the same for propane. I'll have more to add later, I will be out for several hours.
I'm sorry, I cannot figure out what needs to be done there, for example propane per gallon? And how would I know what the efficiency of any fuel is?
What do you pay for propane, price per gallon? What do you pay for kerosene, price per gallon? What is your total cost of a kilowatt of electricity? Do you have 240 volt service to your garage with an extra 60 amperes of capacity?
Without insulating and air sealing the garage, you can forget about attempting to heat the air economically. The best option is a radiant heater (could be electric, could be propane fired*) if you only need to work in one part of the garage. *Must be used with some ventilation
Mini split heat pump system would work. Efficient, yes quiet, yes it can cool also remote control thermostat OR you could do an air handler with electric strip heat. Bulky not so efficient could be noisey can be used with a thermostat OR you can do a through the wall ptac heat pump unit fairly efficient fairly quiet it can cool also internal thermostat or remote thermostat OR you could do an electric shop heater kinda noisey not efficient at all Ugly internal thermostat any one of these options would still require you to insulate to gain the most efficiency.
it's ok, a friend of mine just told me to try the All pro propane heater which he has: All-Pro 40,000 BTU Portable Forced-Air Propane Heater | eBay He said that will definitely do it for less than what I am paying right now for K1 Fuel.
FYI, any fuel burning appliance PRODUCES CARBON MONOXIDE. You must only use those type of appliances in a VENTED SPACE.
The friend mentioned, his garage is bigger than mine, non insulated and he sometimes has the window open, he says, he runs the unit for only 5-10 minutes on the hour becuase the room gets so heated it usually stays warm for an hour or so and sometimes depending on the temp outside he has to open the window. Ventilation is never an issue for me because we are frequently opening the main door to go in and out
Ok - the only efficient electric heating option on the market for this situation is a mini-split ductless heat pump. They provide heating and cooling and are 200%+ efficient. It will cost you 50% to heat and cool the garage compared to any electric resistant heat. You should be able to get away with a 9,000 - 12,000 BTU model that will be more than sufficient. Equipment cost runs in the $1,000-$1,500 range. Equipment is available by Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, Daikin, [link redacted] etc. The system is super quiet, super efficient, and super comfortable. You can look at a youtube DIY video to learn install one.
Ok, thanks, will look into this.
You should get a small 100# tank from your propane supplier. I have a 250 gallon one along with my 250 for the house. I don't even go through one fill on the shop. Propane this year is $1.69 per gallon.
I bought the all pro heater, the friend was correct, it heats up my garage inside of 5 minutes, what I would is one with a thermostat which will shut off and kick on by itself but looking on the net the only ones I am seeing with a thermostat is over 100,000BTU such as this: http://www.wayfair.com/Mi-T-M-Propane-150-000-BTU-Forced-Air-Portable-Space-Heater-MH-0150-LM-MTM1141.html?refid=GX8096953740-MTM1141PiID[]=3473977gclid=CO6pwqfG_LICFcNM4AodfC0AWg what would that mean in my small garage if I were to get it?
Tags: cost, efficient, heater, garage, heat pump, what would, with thermostat, been told, cool also, cost heat
I am painting the interior of an old house, and the baseboard heater covers are in bad shape -- dented, badly painted, ill-fitting -- so I would like to replace them. Can I replace just the covers without getting into the actual plumbing system? Or is it inevitably all one piece? This is gas-powered forced hot water system. The units themselves seem intact and the covers seem to come off.
Depending on age brand, the front panel will usually come off without much trouble but the top is usually part of back panel. I suggest removing the parts which will come off easily, sanding painting with a good paint, such as Rustoleum or Krylon, made for metal. For the parts which can't be removed, sand paint in place.
Originally Posted by Grady Depending on age brand, the front panel will usually come off without much trouble but the top is usually part of back panel. I suggest removing the parts which will come off easily, sanding painting with a good paint, such as Rustoleum or Krylon, made for metal. For the parts which can't be removed, sand paint in place. I found if you remove all front and corner panels, pry back off a little to pull nails that hold cover in place out just a little so that you can remove them with a wonder bar. Now the whole cover can be removed for cleaning and paint. Use drywall screws to reinstall the covers. I have sprayed mine with a good quality oil base paint. They look bwetter than new.
If they are badly dented and beyond repair you should be able to repace them, if you can carefully remove all the fronts, end caps and backings without damaging the fins too bad. You should be able to do this without much concern for the fin tubing. Just measure the fin size height and depth and distance from the floor. Then when purchasing enclosure only you can check those measurements to make sure it will fit ok. MOST residential baseboard is interchangeable. If you do bend some fins just re-straighten them as best as you can or you loose the heat transfer.
FYI... I personally have never, nor ever seen anyone else install baseboard heating with nails. If you do, you are doing a hack job, just like they did in the days of the electric baseboard that I have replaces so many miles of, and that would just fall off the walls if touched. It was quite easy to remove that junk, but don't ever try that with my installations. Use a screw gun.
HELPPP!! I inadvertently threw away several of the dampers for my hot water baseboards. I am looking to replace these, since putting one of those covers over everything is tooooo expensive!!
Originally Posted by plumbingods FYI... I personally have never, nor ever seen anyone else install baseboard heating with nails. If you do, you are doing a hack job ... (snipped) My baseboards were all nailed on. Whoever put the the hydronic system in here did a great job. I wouldn't use spikes since it is such a PITA to remove them but I'm thinking it the common practice given that is how Slant-Fin says to install it. http://www.slantfin.ca/documents/211.pdf
Debsters1 - Most baseboard is brand specific, so just replacing dampers without knowing the exact brand may prove quite difficult. Who - Slant fin recommends either nails or screws, but being an installer of many feet of baseboard, I have found, In My Opinion that baseboard that is nailed on will over time pull away from the wall. especially if there are children in the home. Tags: baseboard, water, heater, covers, parts which, with good, without much, anyone else, anyone else install, anyone else install baseboard, anyone else install baseboard heating, back panel
I have a 2002 Ram 1500 q/c with the 4.7L engine. My defroster will work and produce heat on the lowest fan setting ONLY. If i turn to heater, it blows cold air. I think it is defroster door (actuator or whetever it is called) What do you think? Also, if i am on the right track, could someone send me a link to a diagram or tell me where its located? All help is appreciated. ...Michael
I have the same problem and am wondering if anyone was able to answer your question. Thank you for any information. cwheisler
no i have not had anyone respond with any help. $89 diagnostic fee will have to do the trick
Hmmm leave it for a day or 2, I don't remember seeing this post...and I'm on here A LOT! lol...My wife says all the time... I think we have a couple of Dodge guys on here... It may have gotten bumped down on a busy day.
Have you tried (www.allpar.com] ?
I just went through all that. I replaced the blend door it is a huge project you have to remove the dash board. There is a repair kit available either way it is a 8 hr shop time project. Something a do it yourselfer cant do. Before you go that route try replacing your radiator cap. If your lucky chances are the cap is bad and your not getting enough pressure build up in your system. let em know if that does it.
I just went through all that. I replaced the blend door it is a huge project you have to remove the dash board. There is a repair kit available either way it is a 8 hr shop time project. Something a do it yourselfer cant do. Before you go that route try replacing your radiator cap. If your lucky chances are the cap is bad and your not getting enough pressure build up in your system. let em know if that does it.
OK guys I've got the same problem. On the lowest fan setting the heat will work but anything higher will just blow cool air. Anyone figure out the problem and fix it?
If you are getting heat only on the pass. side then I believe the blend door has failed. Dodge has a fix and the job is not easy as almost the whole dash needs to come out in order to get to the heater box and the door. I have read that a simple flush of the heater core will cure it, But that diidn't work for me. I think because dual climate control was an option the door is set up to control the two sides of the cab. When it fails only the pass. side gets heat. Good luck.
my issue is similar. 02 1500. 4.7ltr. I have adequate warm air on defrost only. ANy other setting i get luke warm sometimes but normally cold. Even if i blend defrost and floor heat, the defrost is warm but the floor is cold. any help at all please........
I have a 2000 dakota and experiencing the same problem I tried flushing the system with no changes...I was considering changing the heater core...Think this could be the problem? my temp gage goes up to normal operating temp but no heat coming out...It used to get to hot in the cab no I am freezing no matter how long it runs...all help is greatly appreciated..
Unfortunatly you do have to remove the dash to access any of the blend door or fresh air door actuators here is a step by step proceedure this takes aprox 5 hrs in a shop so plan on a weekend at home good luck FLOOR - DEFROST DOOR ACTUATOR REMOVAL WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument panel assembly from the vehicle. Fig. 16 HVAC Housing - Dual Zone Shown (Typical - Single Zone) Remove the electrical connector from the actuator. Remove the mounting screws from the actuator. Remove the actuator from the HVAC housing. INSTALLATION Install the floor-defrost door actuator to the HVAC assembly. Install the mounting screws and tighten to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) . Install the actuator electrical connector. Install the instrument panel assembly into the vehicle. Connect the battery negative cable. tried to post diagram just pm me and I'll email it to you
Hey maniac thanks for that but before I do this do you think it could be the heater core...I have lots of air moving and I have no problem moving the air from floor to window I just dont have any heat...and the heater core its up behind the steering column yes...I liked it better when dodge put them on the passanger floor... If you think it could be the heater core whats the procedure for getting at it... I have no wetness on the floor and my prestone is not going down I just have no heat...New rad cap, new thermostat and as mentioned I flushed the system... Its starting to get very cold driving to work any help is greatly appreciated...
If you have heat on the pass side and not the driver side then you have a door problem.If no heat at all on either side then you probably have a plugged heater core.Coolant always flows threw the core on these(no shut off valves)So that part is an easy diag.check you temps on the lines going in and out of the core there should be no\very little difference in temps.If on side is hotter than the other plugged core is the more likely target.I have had success with pulling one line off and back flushing the other side of the core with a water hose till the flow is steady and clean then hooking back up.I don't reccommend this for the faint of heart because you could over pressue the core and pop it if the thing is plugged up beyond hope.Dodge loves their diss. metals prompting all kinds of goo and rust in the cooling systems. I've done this for the cust that just can't afford the labor to replace the core.As to removal of the core its pretty much the same as the motor you still have to remove the HVAC case remove the linkage on your suspect motor to access the cores pipe and cover screws but you don't have to tear the suitcase apart.There is the additional hassle of evac and charge the ac system and removal of the fasteners holding the case to the firewall.Other than that not much different PLEASE make sure you disconnect and isolate the batt connection to discharge the airbag capacitor.
I jumped another vehicles battery and the control to switch what area the heat comes from doesn't work now, I've checked all fuses, the armrest lighter fuse blew relaced it and the plug works but lost the feature to switch air direction for heat, I can switch to hot/cold, a/c still works I just cannot use defrost or floor airflow. This problem happened 2 yrs ago, it's been to the local dodge dealership and they cannot figure it out, I've even went to a junk yard and tried switching out the dash controls and still nothing,. Hoping someone knows what this might be, main issue is getting defrost as the winter weather hits it's a pain not having defrost. If anyone has suggestions I'm all ears,thanks.
One thing to do that may save a little time, is to feel heater hoses at firewall if you can, when engine warmed up to normal operating temperature.(careful might be too hot to touch, so test it first.) When you feel those hoses, they should feel relatively the same temperature + or - a few degrees. If one is hot, and other one is quite a bit cooler, then you have a problem with flow through heater core.
I agree with maniac mechanic. I had the same problem with my 02 ram half ton 4.7l. No drivers side heat. The back half of my heater core was plugged. Not a blend door problem. Try flushing it. Hope this helps.
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 5.9l I have multiple symptoms. Symptom 1 - A/C Compressor runs no matter what setting(vent, floor, defrost, AC) the switch is set to. Symptom 2 - Luke warm heat when set to 100% hot. Symptom 3 - The faster I turn the fan up the colder the air coming out gets. Known facts - New Thermostat, both hoses for heater core are very hot, heater core has been flushed, radiator/reserve is full, Actuator can be heard working when switching from cold to hot to cold, no problems with switching from floor to vent to defrost. Any ideas would be great because my mind is burned out on it.
Is the compressor on all the time or cycling on and off? Sounds like either a blend door problem or a HVAC control module problem.(Dash controls) If constant then I'd bet on the control mod if cycling still possible but thinking the blend door isn't switching all the way or has broken/loose linkage so the motor is working but the door isn't.
Hi my name is Jeremy. I have a 2002 dodge ram with you guessed it heater prob. i have read all the post and pretty much i believe it to be the blend door. however my ? is my truck does not have the dual climate control. so does mine have two doors inside or just one. i also wanna say dodge needs to fix my busted dash, along with all of yours i'm sure. thanks for any help. please send any info to
I've checked my heater hoses tore my dash almost all the way apart. i took the blend door motor off and checked the linkage i can hear the door working. it hits the top when moved and the bottom. i get warm air on the pas. side and cool on the drivers side. please any help. thank you.
Bet the OP in 08 never figured on it running this long.LOL You say you don't have dual climate control but no heat on one side? Do you get the same result on def and vent or just heat. Sounds like a core problem if this happens all settings.The reason for this logic is its a longer distance to the driver side than passenger.Is the air flow the same? If not then you are probably looking at one of the two air doors your lucky in the single zone since there is only one blend door and 2 flow doors.If the air flow is the same just the temp is off a heater core is the most likely target.You can try the active flush I described in a previous post and see if that fixes your problem or if not you will be stuck with a core replacement. If you still have the suitcase out this will be fairly easy to do at this point rather than flush it and reinstall and find out there still isn't enough flow for heat. Good Luck
Thanks for the info. I got up this morning, and was gonna try to flush the core. I was walking out the door, and decided to check for a reply. I wasn't sure if it was the problem, but I was gonna try anyway. Now that I read your post, it makes a lot more sense. Thanks a million for the info. I'll let you know if it works. Thanks again.
Thank You Thank You Thank You. When I flushed it orange crud come out in chunks along with just dirty orange water. I flushed my entire system, and replaced the orange antifreeze with green. The heater is working great now. Maniac Mechanic thank you for the info. If only dodge will replace my busted dash now. lol
Just to let you all know there is a recall which could affect your heat. Mine had been replaced before I bought the truck but it was a shoddy recall repair. Many thanks to Triangle Dodge in Aiken, South Carolina for doing the right thing and repairing the recall again. I have had NO heat for 3 years. Now my defroster will not defrost my windshield. We had to flush the heater core, replace the radiator cap and antifreeze and spend a lot of cold mornings at 5 a.m. to go to work before Daimler buckled and helped me out. Thanks to this website, I am now looking at the blend door actuator as the culprit for the defrost being inoperable. Lots of luck to all. I love my 1500 but it was cold.
No problem Dom glad to help see a few of those every season even this year when we have had almost spring like weather since mid to late Jan even had the top down on my Camero last week during the day.LOL Sure a change from last year when we had 80 plus inches of snow on the ground at this time.
Can someone please tell me go about flushing my heater core in 02 ram quad cab?? thanks muchly
Didn't notice the new post sorry,my post in this thread from 1/5/10 describes that for ya if you haven't seen it yet.
hi everyone my name is rob , i own a 2002 dodge ram 1500 q/c and lately i have noticed an antifreeze odor from start up till it reaches full operating temp then it disipates what could this be. heater core? or something else? please help
Sounds like the core to me.Minor leak that may even slow up with expansion from the hot coolant running through.Those don't have shut off valves and always have coolant flow in them.
thanks maniac mechanic i appreciate your help
Hi, I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 without dual climate control. I am having a little bit of a different problem. All my heat works fantastic, blows really hot air, just not when I change it to my feet. Then all the hot air comes out of the dash defrost vents. It seems to me that the problem is very localized, since no air (or very very little air) comes out of the feet vents on both drivers and passenger side. Any suggestions? Thanks alot! Bill
Bill, welcome to the forums! As you can see this thread spans a 2 year interval and was hijacked at least 3 times. To keep down confusion, just start a new thread rather than tagging on to another one. SO, to your problem. Are you running a gasser or Cummins? Diesels have a vacuum pump in front of the power steering pump on a common shaft that provides vacuum to the heater doors. Diesels are positive atmosphere since they are turbo, hence the vacuum pump. Fairly sure the gas engines work off their own vacuum, so I'd be looking at broken or disconnected hoses next to the firewall and under the dash (feet up, head down, backwards). With the engine running, listen for a hiss, indicating a hose may be loose or broken. Barring that, since it moves from face to defrost (I assume), you may have an uncooperative door that may need a little lubrication at the pivot points. Or you could have a rat's nest lodged against the door keeping it from opening. Just have to get dirty and look at all the possibilities.
how can i tell if its the HVAC control or the door
Welcome! sounds like we all may have cracked dashes. What the?? Do we need bigger hAMMERS! lol!!! 2000 dodge ram 2000, 1500 ... Problem, Only blows hot air for about 15 seconds, then gets cold. Turn off 5 mins turn back on same thing. i have changed thermostat, flushed, still no difference. i can hear compressor kick on and off, not sure if that makes a difference. could it be the blend door? Help! Please. It's getting cold in tulsa, okla
Chesterdodge, welcome to the forums! If you are hearing the compressor kick in and out, then you have it locked in defrost mode, as the compressor won't cycle in regular heat mode. Sounds like a heat control valve or select valve.....is the heat coming out the heat vents at the floor or from the dash with it in heat mode?? And it must be a Ram 2500 as there is no nomenclature for a 2000
the heat comes out the front vents,then cools again. Checked the hoses temps feel about the same, the heat only lasts a short period of time. Thanks for your help!!!
I would check the 1/8 hoses for looseness or cracks. Sounds like your selector is not sending the heat signal to the doors. Heat should be coming out the floor, not the dash. As I asked the other poster is yours a gasser or Cummins?
I would like to say hello.. and introduce myself as another owner of a 2002 dodge 1500 4.7 with a heat problem. This place is fantastic and I'm learning tons of info about my truck. So here's my prob. Blast of heat. . . then cold air. lowest setting = very little warmth to none. Thermosat good, = temps in lines going in and out of core. AC is good. Someone had mentioned a possible replacement of a vacuum line behind the control panel??? I haven't read anything about this yet. I was still going to give the core a flush - but I would like to find out if there is chance this could be the prob. Oh - and yes.... My dash is cracked too..... in 4 places. Looks like a jigsaw puzzle. Not sure what would cause more personal damage. . .the actual accident or flying dash pieces.
Hi I have notice that my heater doesn't work since yesterday, when I turn the fan speed to high I only get cold air, this is in the diver and passenger side. I also noticed that the windshield gets fogy from the inside and now smell so bad inside the car. What could be wrong ? Thanks
The Oldsmobile Bravada is a mid-size luxury SUV. It is basically a luxury version of the 4-door Chevrolet Blazer/GMC Jimmy with the same V6 engine, automatic transmission and standard antilock brakes. Oldsmobile produced Bravadas from 1991 until 2004.
Miles Per Gallon (City)
The 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada SUV AWD averages approximately 14 miles per gallon (MPG) in city driving. City driving yields fewer miles per gallon than highway driving because of the constant stop-and-go pace that is typical when driving in city traffic. Traffic lights impact mileage because repeated deceleration and acceleration use additional gas.
Miles Per Gallon (Highway)
The 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada SUV AWD averages approximately 18 MPG in highway driving. Highway driving yields more miles per gallon than city driving because speeds are generally constant, with infrequent acceleration and deceleration.
Fuel Costs
The 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada SUV AWD will cost approximately $4.03 for every 25 miles of driving, if the city and highway miles per gallon ratings are averaged, based on an average gasoline price of $2.58 per gallon. The combined city and highway mileage is 16 MPG. Based on these numbers, the Bravada has fuel costs of approximately 16 cents per mile.
The many reasons to visit Bali, Indonesia, besides sun, sand and surf, include: the Monkey Forest Sanctuary with three Buddhist temples and Balinese macaque inhabitants; the village of Batubulan; Pura Besakih or mother temple of Bali; the Bali Orchid Garden; the active volcano Gunung Batur; and the Ubud Museum of Art. The island of Bali has hundreds of resorts and hotels, but there are only a limited number of truly high-class, luxury, five-star quality resorts and spas to choose from.
St. Regis Resort
Enjoy the most exquisite pampering available at the St. Regis Resort. A stay here includes access to the Bali Country Club, and lodging in one of their private villas, each with a spectacular view of the Balinese landscape and soundproof rooms. They also have a concierge service, private swimming lagoon and heated pool, the luxurious Remede Spa, built amidst a koi pond and featuring traditional Balinese massage techniques. The resort also features a fully equipped athletic club and business center. They are striving to become 100 percent environmentally sustainable, but admit this is an ongoing process.
St. Regis Resort
Kawasan Pariwisata
Lot S6, P.O. Box 4
Nusa Dua, Bali 80363
Indonesia
011-62-361-8478-111
starwoodhotels.com/stregis
Ubud Hanging Gardens
Set among a valley of terraced rice gardens, the resort gets its name from the lush foliage that covers and surrounds it. These gardens provide privacy, shade from the hot afternoon sun, and a serene quiet to your entire resort experience. Ubud Hanging Gardens has 38 luxury villas; each of them includes panoramic views of the countryside, wireless Internet, in-room safes, free bottled water, bathrobes and slippers, and a private terrace. The Ayung spa services guests with many different massage and relaxation packages. The resort welcomes reservations for weddings, honeymoons and larger business gatherings.
Ubud Hanging Gardens
Desa Buahan-Desa Payangan
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia
011-62-361-9827-00
ubudhanginggardens.com
Viceroy Bali
An exclusive member of the Small Luxury Hotel of the World association, the Viceroy combines a small-hotel feeling with five-star qualities. Swimming in its Infinity pool seems like floating at the top of the world. The CasCade Restaurant overlooks the Petanu river gorge and the Viceroy Bar stocks a large collection of fine liquors and top-quality wines. A day of relaxing in the Lembah Spa under the watchful eye of a trained specialist, along with yoga and meditation practice, will leave you stress-free. The Viceroy also has the only helicopter pad in the Ubud region. It is necessary to reserve beforehand airport pickup or an island-hopping excursion in the hotel's helicopter.
Flea prevention keeps your dog from having tapeworms.
When your dog has fleas, he will chew on his skin to relieve the itching. As a result, he will ingest fleas, and if the fleas are carrying tapeworm larvae, the larvae will latch on to the inner lining of your dog's digestive system and grow into a tapeworm. To avoid giving your dog harsh chemical cures, consider natural and preventative treatments.
Protect against Fleas
To prevent fleas from infesting your dog with tapeworm, keep your dog away from areas frequented by wild animals or strays that might be carrying fleas. Before your dog romps in the weeds or woods, spray her down with a citrus spray made by boiling a quartered lemon and steeping it overnight in one pint of water. Make a flea collar by putting eucalyptus oil, citronella oil, almond carrier oil, cedar wood oil, tea tree oil, lavender oil or geranium oil on a bandanna. After your dog has gone in weeds or woods, check her for fleas using a flea comb and give her a bath using Dawn dish soap. Steep two cups of fresh rosemary overnight and add water up to a gallon to make a rinse that should be allowed to dry on your dog. Always vacuum your home thoroughly after your dog has ventured in weeds or woods, and keep a chemically treated flea collar in your vacuum bag.
Healthy Diet
Since fleas are more attracted to animals of poor health as well as dogs with a lot of sugar in their blood, it is very important to feed your dog a healthy diet to prevent fleas and the concurrent tapeworm infestation. Avoid dog foods filled with simple carbohydrates such as corn, soy and wheat. You may also consider switching your dog to an all natural diet of raw meats, bones and vegetables or cooking for him.
Supplement his diet with a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar in his water and a sprinkling of brewer's yeast in his food to deter fleas. Five milligrams of vitamin B a day will deter fleas as well. Fresh minced garlic will deter fleas as well as tapeworms. Use only a quarter of a clove for small dogs and up to a whole clove for large dogs per day--too much garlic may cause anemia. To inhibit tapeworms, add a quarter of a teaspoon to a whole teaspoon (depending on size) of wheat germ oil and of fresh ground raw pumpkin seeds to your dog's food every day.
Herbal Treatments
If your dog is already infested with tapeworms, switch him to a low-fat diet consisting of no sugars (grains and fruits) and no fats (eggs and dairy). Tapeworms thrive off of fats and sugars. Instead, if he is healthy, fast him for 24 hours and afterwards feed him chopped carrots, beets or turnips. The roughage will help push out the worms. Additionally, you can feed him a mixture of black walnut hull, wormwood and clove. You can find black walnut oil and wormwood oil at a natural-foods store, through a homeopathic veterinarian or at websites such as Dr.Clarkia.com. Garlic, pumpkin seeds and vegetable enzymes such as those found in papaya and figs are also natural treatments for existing tapeworm.
Sarin is an extremely dangerous poison. It is hundreds of times more poisonous than comparable poison gases such as cyanide. For this reason, it is crucial to administer a treatment as soon after sarin poisoning as possible to save the lives of those affected by the gas. Protective clothing should be worn by anyone attempting to administer a treatment for sarin poisoning.
Instructions
1. Find a hospital that knows treat sarin poisoning and has the proper medications. Most hospitals don't keep the information available. Very few have the antidote to sarin. Transferring to another hospital may be necessary.
2. Get rid of anything that may have sarin residue on it. Wearing rubber gloves, take off the clothes that were worn and get rid of any items that were in the same vicinity as the sarin. This will prevent any further inhalation of the gas. Clothes that can't be stepped out of should be cut away from the person. Taking the clothes upward over the head can increase the amount of sarin that is inhaled. Place the clothing in a sealable bag, along with towels, gloves and anything else that touched them. Contacts and jewelry should also be put into the bag. Contact your local health department to let them know where the clothing bag is so that they can dispose of it properly.
3. Wash the person to get rid of any sarin residue. The entire body needs to be rinsed and washed with soap to ensure that no one else is infected with the poison. Caregivers are often poisoned when trying to help sarin victims. Even a tiny amount of sarin left on the body can poison others.
4. Take pralidoxime. This is often considered to be the most potent antidote for sarin. Another antidote is antropine. The treatments have to be given very quickly after the poisoning or they will be much less effective.
Tips Warnings
Sarin takes effect very quickly in the body, even within a minute's time, attacking the nervous system. Early symptoms of sarin poisoning include excessive runny nose, pupil constriction and chest tightness. These symptoms develop into problems with breathing and losing control of bodily functions. Coma and death follow. The immediate administering of an antidote is mandatory if the victim stands the chance to survive.
Although oven porcelain enamel is a durable and heat-resistant surface material, it isn't damage-proof-it can scratch, crack or chip when exposed to hard, sharp or heavy objects. As unrepaired damaged areas can continue to flake or chip, it is necessary to repair damaged porcelain immediately to protect non-damaged surrounding surfaces. In most cases, repairs usually only require the use of a color-matched, water- and heat-resistant appliance porcelain enamel repair paint for scratches and narrow cracks or filler and paint for wide cracks and chips.
Instructions
Scratches and Narrow Cracks
1. Unplug your oven and wait for it to cool completely if not already cool to the touch.
2. Sand down damaged rough or sharp edges with damp sandpaper.
3. Suck up loose porcelain particles, sand and any other debris with a vacuum, wipe the area with a damp lint-free microfiber cloth and air-dry 30 minutes.
4. Shake the bottle of enamel paint from your repair kit for one to two minutes to mix the paint thoroughly, add colored tint (if not already tinted) and shake again.
5. Brush the first coat of paint into the scratch or narrow crack, using the brush from the repair kit. and wait between 20 to 45 minutes.
6. Remove any excess paint from non-damaged surfaces with acetone and a cloth if necessary and wait an additional eight to 12 hours before use. Repeat if additional coats are needed.
Wide Cracks and Chips
7. Unplug your oven and wait for it to cool if necessary.
8. Sand down damaged rough or sharp edges.
9. Vacuum the area, wipe with a damp cloth and air-dry 30 minutes.
10. Combine and mix thoroughly your repair kit's compound filler ingredients in the kit's mixing tray or a separate container. Mix half to start or mix all and store half in the freezer in a separate sealed container until needed.
11. Apply the filler in a light coat inside the bottom of the chip, wait 40 to 60 minutes for the filler to harden and apply a second coat. If additional coats are needed, remove the frozen filler from the freezer, wait 10 minutes and apply additional coats, or mix more filler and apply to the chip.
12. Sand the filler smooth even with the surrounding surface with fine sandpaper and vacuum up any loose debris.
13. Brush or spray enamel paint onto the filler and wait 48 hours before use and at least five days before cleaning.
Tips Warnings
Hire a porcelain repair specialist to repair large damaged areas.
To repair a vertical surface, lay the damaged part or oven-with help from another person as needed-on its side on thick fabric or carpet with the damage facing up.
If using spray porcelain enamel paint, spray lightly approximately 6 inches from the surface, using a short, back-and-forth motion.
Always wear safety gear, such as a mask, safety goggles and gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area to reduce upper respiratory, eye and skin exposure to the poisonous ingredients in porcelain repair products that can harm or even kill humans and pets.
Seal the paint or filler container immediately after each application to reduce the amount of toxic fumes in the air.
Never work around a hot burner or smoke as fumes can ignite.