I am replacing an electric motor that went bad, and bought a similar model (Marathon model 5KC49TN0063Y). It's a reversible 1hp dual voltage, we're using the low voltage. We can't figure out wire the new motor. There are seven wires on the new motor, Orange, Brown, Red, Black, White, Yellow, and Purple (and a ground screw) The old motor only had four wires connected from the reversing switch, (plus the ground wire makes five), but there isn't a direct correlation between the old and the new. Looking at the new motor diagram, and using the way the old motor was connected, I think we need to connect the yellow and white from the motor to the white on the switch. We need to connect the black on the motor to the orange on the switch. Red connects to Red. But now we're left with a black from the switch, and an orange, brown, and purple on the motor. I think we may need to combine the orange and brown on the motor, so does that leave purple connecting to black? New Motor Wiring Diag New Motor Model Info Old Motor Wiring Diag Old Motor Model Info Blk, wht and yel tie together and attach to one line. Tie brn, org and red together and install wire nut. Attach Prpl to second line. We need either a wiring diagram of the reversing switch or a detailed description of what switch wires hookup up to what terminals on the old motor. Without one of those we can't tell you hook it up correctly. One other option would be to use a ohmmeter/continuity tester and ring out the wiring on the switch. Make sure the power is off and unhook the switch. Put the switch in the forward position and test all the pairs to see which have continuity and which don't. Toggle the switch to the reverse position and do the same thing. Let us know this information and we can figure out the correct wiring. Also let us know where the line power comes in and what terminals it is connected to. Thanks for your reply Ben, you stated exactly what I've been thinking.. I didn't supply enough information about the reversing switch. I planned to test the switch as you stated, and then wire as the diagram indicates (and as CasualJoe echoed), except pulling the black out of the wht/yel/blk trio, and pulling the red out of the brn/org/red trio, so that I can tie those to the wires that the switch is reversing. I opened the switch, and the black and white wires come in and out with the same color, and the orange and red are the ones that are reversed. This is how I plan to proceed: I will hook the white wire from the switch to the white/yellow on the motor. I will hook the black wire from the switch to the purple on the motor. I will hook the orange and red from the switch to the black and red on the motor, and test the direction for forward/reverse, and then swap those if it runs opposite from what's expected. Does that sound like a solid plan?
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I need some parts for my atlas snowblower, model # A520ES-N. I need the pc that's holding the auger to the chassis ( not the one w/the pulley attached), facing the snowblower that would be on my lefthand side. somebody told me that mtd bought the company, but this is not true. thx You could try pete's snowblower workshop,go thru Google,interesting site We sold Atlas many, many moons ago and I believe that you can obtain parts information through MTD. Try calling 1-800-800-7310 and let us know how you made out. Originally Posted by puey61 We sold Atlas many, many moons ago and I believe that you can obtain parts information through MTD. Try calling 1-800-800-7310 and let us know how you made out. There's no ring when I try this number, do you have the right number? thx The number is correct per their website. Supposed to be in operation weekdays from 8:00 A.M - 5:00 P.M. eastern standard time. thx a million, guys!!!, I finally contacted mtd today. dont know why that tel # dont work before? luckily they still have the parts in stock they even send me the whole drawing diagrams by fax. I am really grateful for all your help,,people HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL!!!!!!!!!! hopefully the parts are compatible...
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I new so be patient. Last weekend I replaced, with new both hot/cold water valves and the show diverter in my tub. Water works great but now the shower splits the water, half from the head and half from the spout, in the shower on position. Yes it is a knob type diverter (turns), not spout activated. Before I changed it the shower worked great even though later I found the old diverter was missing an O ring. I figured why not change all three and be done with it. Ok, I put the OLD diverter back in and now it does the same thing whereas before it worked great. Today I took the head off, diverter valve out, then blew 100psi from the shower pipe backwards and turned on the water to flush it but it's still split half/half. I can take the head off, turn on the water/shower, and most comes out of the pipe. If I put the head back on it splits. I've taken a washcloth in the palm of my hand and placed it under the spout but the water from the head does NOT increase. Yes I've even taken the head apart to see if there's a restriction. There is not. I've heard there's a restrictor of some type in the water manifold but I don't see one. Replacing the spout with a diverter built I don't think will help as my hand/washcloth blocking the spout acted as a diverter and it changed nothing. As for the brand of fawcet...haven't a clue but it's from the early 70's. The bathrooms are laid out as in one tub backs up to the sink/vanity in the other and the reverse for the other bath. To replace a tub fawcet means tearing out one sink/vanity and tile in one bath to access the fawcet of the opposing bathroom's tub. This is SO simple in principal yet VERY frustrating because it won't work correctly and all I did was replace the diverter. I've searched the net for an exploded view of a shower fawcet for an idea of how the diverter functions but found nothing!!!! ARGGGGGGGGGGG ! Anyone with ANY ideas will be GREATLY appreciated. I KNOW someone out there has encountered this problem before and it's hard to believe no one hasn't besides me and that no one has replied with anything. If someone said they too have the same unsolved problem at least I'd know I'm not the only one......for what good that'll do me. C'mon all you vastly experienced people, HELP PLEASE! Or is it so simple that I'm an idiot for not figuring this out? I replaced the spout with one having a built in shower diverter and as I figured, that didn't help either. It did stop the water from coming out of the spout but did nothing for increasing the shower output which is still half strength of what it was. Is there a restricter inside the working somewhere that cold be stopped up? As I said earlier, I've taken the shower head apart and found nothing there to cause this. Sometimes we have to read the longer posts a few times to make sure we can answer them well, so be patient with us, too. First, you stated you changed out the valves on all three. Did you replace them with the same style that came out? I know it is a simple question, but you wouldn't believe the number of valves out there, and there are minor size differences that make a great deal of difference in how they perform. If all is well with the valves, then it appears you will have to resurface the face of the diverter valve housing with an appropriately sized reamer, available at most hardware and big box stores. What can be happening is the valve is closing properly, but against a poor surface, thereby allowing water to still flow past it to the spout. Look into the housing with the diverter valve pulled out and see if it is cracked or deformed. Post back with the results and lets see if we can get it fixed. And check the head of the shower and see/clean out any debris Hey, the same thing is happening to me. I just had the faucet replaced and all three valves. Then my handyman added a new faucet with another diverter. It still doesn't stop. Now he says he has to replace the manifold? Also for some reason my pipes are knocking (very loud noise). And my water pressure is low in the whole house. Did you find out what the problem was? If by the diverter valve housing you mean the actual seat, I replaced that already with one supplied with the diverter. As I said earlier, I took both the old and new valves plus the diverter completely apart comparing each piece to piece as I went. All are identical. I am going to try and post a pic of the old diverter this evening if that'll helps somehow. Like I said, the old one worked great before I changed it but after this started, I put it back in and the problem continued. I did not replace the old seat until this occured but it contiuned after I installed the new seat. As mentioned earlier, there are hundreds of different brands of valves out there, and few, if any, of them are exactly the same. What I do in this situation is look very carefully at the diverter stem. It has a simple function, water goes up or water goes down. Look at the mating surfaces to see why it's not sealing front back. There may be a missing rubber part, or one that's not thick enough. If you can determine how it's supposed to do it's job, you can figure out why it isn't. Take your time. You can also try going to the mfg's website to look for a parts diagram. BTW, the knocking pipes indicate that there may be a loose part in the assembly. Thanks for the reply....I hired a master plumber. It was the seat and new stem of the diverter that was installed incorrectly by my handyman. Unfortunately, I have paid double now for this job. The pipe noise he said was apparently from the bracket that held the pipes which is either loose or fell off behind the wall. I can't really know for sure without taking the shower tiles off. There is no other access. Thanks again. p.s. I love this sight. After several postings, untold searches, and some ideas/advice, the tub water splitting between the shower and faucet (with the shower turned on) is solved. It all came down to a simple BUT missing O-ring. The faucet is a Sayco and has a center knob for the shower. I bought the replacement from a MAJOR home center and after discovering this missing, I took a trip there and found the same valves, on display pegs, missing this O-ring too. The kit came with a new diverter, a new seat, and a new threaded inside/outside ring that screws into the manifol and the diverter screws into it. Everything you would need to do a rebuild BUT this O-ring. The Sayco diverter has a small barrel with two small opposing slots in it and that fits on the working end of the stem. The barrel has a step down ridge and THAT'S where the missing O-ring fit. When I pulled mine out originally this O-ring wasn't there. Before installing the new one l compared the old one to the replacement and it too didn't have the O-ring so I had no clue it was SUPPOSE to. Plus I've gone back to the store and looked at more valves and they too don't have this ring. Shows to go ya, just 'cause it's new doesn't mean it's ready to go! I have spent coutless time on the Internet searching with no luck to find out my brand new part was missing a piece. How did I discover this? I did a search today and found lockplumbing.com and found exploded view of my diverter and it showed an O-ring mine didn't have. I put one on and now the shower works as it always did. So, thanks to all for your ideas and your time. I gotta go take a shower now!!!!!!!!!! Originally Posted by ss62 Everything you would need to do a rebuild BUT this O-ring. The Sayco diverter has a small barrel with two small opposing slots in it and that fits on the working end of the stem. The barrel has a step down ridge and THAT'S where the missing O-ring fit. Now that you've figured it out....help! I have the exact same problem! When I pulled the old diverter out of the barrel to replace the packing washer, I noticed the small O-ring came out as well, but I didn't see from where. I've tried to replace it in every conceivable place in this contraption, but to no avail. It fits snug on the stem itself, so I know it must go somewhere on the stem and my guess is it goes inside the barrel with the opposing slots? I see no step down , unless you mean on the outside of the barrel just above the flange where the flat washer sits? Thanks for any help! Thanks to SS62 .... I had exactly the same problem. Replaced the diverter with a new one and it was splitting the water between shower/tub. Followed your directions. Sure enough. No o-ring on the step down. Went to Lowes and found one to fit. Reinstalled and it works perfectly. Thanks for your post. I also found pieces of the o-ring inside the valve. Cleaned it all out by flushing with diverter removed. Yee Ha!! Love my shower now! I've had the problem since yesterday, Sunday. This evening I did some searching and happened upon your thread and viola! Problem fixed. Thank you so much. The mysteriously missing O-ring did the trick. It was unbelievably simple!! I too have had the same frustration with replacing the Sayco 9B-5D Diverter Stem and still the faucet leaked. I did go to my Lowe's and bought a package of #35 O-Rings (15/16 O.D. x 9/16 I.D. x 1/16) and put one of those on that step down portion of the barrel of my old diverter stem and fixed the problem. Thanks to all who contributed to this post. For your information, I found a picture of the stem with an o-ring at: DANCO 9B-5D Diverter Stem for sayco NEW/SEALED#15886B - eBay (item 150385385346 end time Dec-01-09 15:35:07 PST) Same problem here, missing o-ring on a no-name diverter in a three knob type faucet. No pieces emerged when I pulled the valve, so no clue that something was missing. After long searching and much grumping of unshowered family members I saw the post from ss62. Grabbed the valve and looked... sure enough the place where the o-ring should have been showed a ring of brighter brass where the o-ring seats. Quick and easy fix. Much gratitude and a million thanks. Keywords for the next guy: shower diverter half on tub faucet still running OMG! I had the same problem and spent a full afternoon trying to figure out what I did wrong. I put the project aside for two weeks and took the new valve out of the handle and returned to HD. I closely inspected the remaining assemblies on the rack. It turns out that my Sayco 9B-5D replacement assembly DIDN'T include a key O-ring at the end. I found two other assemblies missing the same O-Ring and four that included them. I brought this to the attention of the HD employee and he took one from another assembly and handed it to me. (He then removed the incomplete assembly from the rack so no one else would buy it.) The employee stated that sometimes the assemblies are missing a part or two. (BTW My assembly was made in China.) Special thanks to DUNBAR PLUMBER and Void Main and everyone else who posted on this subject! Here are a few helpful things i have learned about water coming out of shower and spout. - if it is hot water coming out of the spout, it is most likely a missing or broken o-ring that goes under the slotted sleeve. - if you have replaced the o-ring and it keeps breaking after a week or sometimes a month...... the slotted sleeve is most likely warped and it is pinching the o-ring everytime you open the diverter. (this was my issue and has kicked mt butt for a while). i tried to use pliers to reshape the sleeve but made it worse and just replaced the diverter. hope this helps.
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If it continues to run heat after you reset it, I doubt the problem is the flame sensor (cad cell). There are a lot of possibilities but the most common are: Fouled nozzle, electrodes not adjusted properly, weak ignition transformer. Any, a combination, or others could be the problem. Are you at all familiar with oil burners? only vaguely. im better with propane. it does run fine after you reset it though. it could go for days or hours im not sure what triggers it. The fact it can run for hours or days is getting more frequent, tends to make me think it is a burner motor rather than something else but it's hard to tell. The next time it needs to be reset a few seconds after you get it fired, open the flame observation door look at the flame. Make mental note of the color of the flame. Let the burner run for 5 or 10 minutes shut it off. Leave off for 5-10 minutes start it back up. Again look at the flame. If the flame is now brighter light yellow where it was more orange or dark yellow before, you had excess fuel in the chamber which has now burned off. This pretty well eliminates the motor. well heres an update. the boiler continues to go out still but now wont even light at times. i opened the door and cleaned the nozzle with a clean rag being careful not to hit the electrodes. it was really gummed up with crap. it will work fine for a few days then go back to its old habit. now ive got to open the door and clean it every few days due to it not lighting but it looks clean when i do it. the door now has a broken hinge on it from opening to many times and im having a real hard time finding spares. im just trying to eek out a bit more time from it before i have the money for another service guy. at this point im seriously considering a new one. ive seen newer starfire 3's like mine for $2000. thats a little more than double what ive already dropped in it this year and im looking at more now. It sounds like the boiler's fuel system is in need of a cleaning. You can change the nozzle, filter, pump screen yourself. i agree. filter is easy, just gotta get the part number. dont know anything about the pump screen and i looked at replacing the nozzle but i was worried about removing the elctrodes and not getting them back right. i cant find any real service manual for this thing so im piecing things together a little at a time. one last thing. in the firing chamber their is a lot of insulation on the floor of it. looks like insulation from the door area but nones missing. should i leave it or pull it all out and make sure the chamber is clean and debris free. IF after changing the screen, nozzle, and filter you still experience the same problem, you should suspect one of the following: 1)incorrectly adjusted electrodes 2)nozzle assembly setback is incorrect 3)a weak HV transformer 4)incorrect pump pressure setting 5)loose T-T jumper (if it has one) 6)bad primary relay 7)loose wire nut connection to electrical connections to primary relay 8)weak or binding blower motor 9)drive coupling too 'long' (if recently replaced) causing binding thus preventing motor from starting 10)obstruction in squirrel fan area (loose wire hanging, dropped nut or screw) 11)fuel line needs a good CO2 blow 12)BAD NOZZLE The BOLD ones are the ones that I think may be the problem. The BOLD BLUE underlined ones I would check first! Check the easy (simple) stuff first! So you see, it's simple BTW -----it makes alot of sense what GRADY said about looking at the flame color. If you really do not want to spend the time and don't enjoy the headache, why not just replace the entire burner for about $325.00? They have them at Home Depot, Lowe's, and boiler supply houses. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, maybe a service guy can do it for you---------still cheaper than a new boiler. Good luck! Charlie P.S. Isn't it funny how the toothache disappears just before you get to the dentist? In other words: It's difficult to find the problem if it isn't happening while you are looking at it! If you are uncomfortable working on it. Stop now call a service person. Most are glad to show you do simple maintenance such as changing the nozzle, filter, pump screen as well as cleaning adjusting the electrodes. Better to pay someone learn to do it right than really mess something up. its not that im uncomfortable with doing it just unfamiliar with it. ill go as far as i can with out the help then call them. somethings i jsut dont know about so ill list what i can and cant do. 1-cant find any info on proper settings. it does light and usually a for a while after i clean the nozzle area. im pretty careful about not disturbing them and i have no idea check if they are bad or not. 2-again i dont know what the set back on this should be either. 3-dont know hiow to diagnose/ 4-dont know proper pressure. 5-dont think it has one. 6-dont know check. 7-checked wires but will check again. 8-motor sounds fine with no delays or hesitation 9-motor starts everytime you hit the reset button other than that it always works. 10-ill check that 11-newer fuel line that was blown out by tech last time. 12- i think thats an issue but am hesitant to remove with out knowledge of proper settings for electrodes. im going down to the pit tomorrow to change out the filter and work on getting the broken pins out of the door hinge.ill also look into the suggested areas to find out what i can. replacing the whole unit sounds like a good idea but ill try to save/ learn about this one. thanks guys. well heres the update. changed the filter, the old one was really bad and had lots of crud in it. flushed the line somewhat with fresh oil. cleaned the pump filter (im not sure i did it right but the book i had said to just clean it with kerosene and a soft brush. i couldnt really see how it would filter but it was what was picture and looks a bit like a spark plug shape) flush clean oil through that as well. after looking at my boiler insides im thinking my liner is on its way out. ive got the floor part which is basically flakes and the one on the door is flaking off and some is stuck to the boiler side. so far the thing is running but the flame is orange and looks messy. im gonna get a new nozzle when i can and try to get the tool the helps align the electrodes. the book i got (home depot project book) says to file down the tips and then set them up but the ones i have now arent filed. so should i or shouldnt i? also whats that dial thing on the pump housing that goes between the pump and the motor. Originally Posted by kit352 well heres the update. changed the filter, the old one was really bad and had lots of crud in it. flushed the line somewhat with fresh oil. cleaned the pump filter (im not sure i did it right but the book i had said to just clean it with kerosene and a soft brush. i couldnt really see how it would filter but it was what was picture and looks a bit like a spark plug shape) flush clean oil through that as well. after looking at my boiler insides im thinking my liner is on its way out. ive got the floor part which is basically flakes and the one on the door is flaking off and some is stuck to the boiler side. so far the thing is running but the flame is orange and looks messy. im gonna get a new nozzle when i can and try to get the tool the helps align the electrodes. the book i got (home depot project book) says to file down the tips and then set them up but the ones i have now arent filed. so should i or shouldnt i? also whats that dial thing on the pump housing that goes between the pump and the motor. The electrodes should be filed so there are points on the ends. Over time they will dull again from the heat. Which is why they look the way they do. The dial thing between the motor pump is most likely the air shutter. On an oil burner both air and oil is pumped into the fire box. The volume of oil is set by the pump pressure and the nozzle size (GPH). The air is set by a shutter or vent. Once the nozzle flow is set, which is decided by the volume of heat required (BTU's), the air shutter is used to set the air fuel ratio. Initial measurements for this setting is done by a smoke test. Then fine tuned by measuring the CO2 in the stack. You shouldn't change the shutter unless you can measure the smoke CO2. However, you can use a tooth brush and clean the lint and such that builds up on the shutter and passages. Al. If you will take some pictures of the burner/boiler, post them at www.photobucket.com or similar site, provide a link here, we can probably tell what brand of burner you have be better able to guide you in your quest to get this thing running right. The information from the data plate on the boiler would also be helpful. beckett burner. model afg that takes a .85x80b nozzle at 1gpm. the boiler a utica starfire 3 #sfh3100wt. burner assembley seems rather new but the boiler is getting very long in the tooth. on a side note im thinking i should switch it to a 2 line system if im already doing all this work. i think all ive got left i can resonably do is the nozzle and electrodes. id like to do the liner since it seems no good but i cant find any info on do it or if its needed but i did find them for sale. just no info. if you think pics would help ill go get some. That boiler, properly installed maintained, should last 30-40 years. Your electrodes should be set as follows: 5/16 to 7/16 above the center of the nozzle, 1/16 in front of the nozzle face, have a gap of 1/8 to 5/32. When removing the nozzle/electrode assembly, DO NOT loosen the 5/16 hex head screw on the side of the burner which holds that slide plate in place. If you have already done so, post back I will tell you fix the maladjustment which has likely occured. Spark plug shape??? I think what you may have been cleaning is the strainer on the inlet side of the nozzle. There should be a screen in the fuel pump (presuming a Suntec or Danfoss pump). Pictures, the more the merrier, are always helpful. Originally Posted by kit352 ... on a side note im thinking i should switch it to a 2 line system ... No, don't do that... Google up 'TIGER LOOP' ... if you want the 'self-priming' advantage of 2 lines, this will give it to you without the dis-advantages. well heres the update. i finally recieved my new nozzles and installed them. the flame is much better now. its a uniform cone shape instead of the shaky one from before. its also alot quieter when running, doesnt sound like a jet engine. i still have the original issue though its not as bad. when it doesnt start all i have to literally do is open up the door and take just one wipe on the nozzle tip with a paper towel and itll start right up. my guess now is the electrodes. i kinda filed them to a point and set them at the settings i got from grady. im thinking i screwed up abit though. im gonna get the electrode setting tool and use that. im open to other suggestions in the mean time. the electrodes look worn. it was difficult getting the right settings. it would have been easier to bend the tips but i didnt think that was a good idea. Go ahead bend them. I do it almost every day. got the tool and bent them into position. they were a little shorter than the ones i saw but i got them into shape. same issue. the blower will turn on but no flame. all i have to do is open it up and wipe the nozzle once with cloth, tissue, finger.. and shut the door and it fires right up. i wiped the flame sensor to see if that would help but didnt. i think im gonna have to break down and call the service guy. im stuck. Did you ever replace that pump screen as I suggested way back? no, i didnt. i was told it would have no effect on my situation and i wasnt really sure go about it any way. i didnt want to screw the pump up. if you think its worth it ill order the parts and start looking for the proper diagrams. iwas using the wrong ones when i took it apart before. My crystal ball shows me a HV Transformer with a weak spark. Could the crystal ball be wrong? Does anybody else's crystal ball show the same thing????? I do not want to tell you how WE check in the field, because if you do it wrong, your hair will stand up! Maybe somebody else can tell you. A major investment of about $50 would be required to change it. That's alot of Buds to sacrifice for heat. I also don't know which would keep me warmer, the boiler or the beer! Charlie Well, maybe but maybe a dozen other things too. Nope, I'm not going to tell about the special multi-purpose transformer testing tool. I think it's time to make the call. i think ive got a spare transformer around somewere i might through in. im not gonna use the special multipurpose testing tool cause i know somehow, someway ill get the s--- shocked out of me. i never cared to start old cars that way and im sure not gonna like jumping terminal that way either. i think it is about time to make the call though. ive tried but it really hasnt gotten me any closer to fixing the actual problem. hasnt really cost me much either just a lot of time and i did stuff that ill end up doing every year for tune ups any way. on a side note all this boiler trouble has prompted me to go to college for hvacr and get all my license's. i meet with the admissions wed. ill let you guys know if i its the transformer, i should probably replace it anyway. Grady is right, it can be any number of things! ASSuming nobody fiddled with the oil pressure adjustment, electrodes, etc. etc.... One would FIRST change the filter, screen and nozzle. Check the electrodes. THEN one would look for other things and based on the limited info I would guess bad oil flow (screen, nozzle, filter, clogged or slow line), faulty transformer, clogged flue or boiler full of soot, etc... I THOUGHT YOU CHANGED THE SCREEN. DO IT! It will set you back about $3.00 at Home Depot! This may be your problem! Make sure you take off ALL of the old gasket and clean the pump body and housing cover too! Use a razor knife like for windshield stickers if you need to. Put the new gasket on first! Line up the holes. THEN put on the screen! Put in the 4 bolts BY HAND first, making sure not to pinch the gasket! Then tighten then equally. Do not over tighten! The screen does not come with instructions. I personally would check the transformer with a tool similar to Grady's, but mine is much cheaper and is NOT a multi-purpose one like his. Mine can ONLY be used on burner transformers because it can't be used for anything else! (If you know what I mean) Then you will need to bleed the pump to get it going again. If it still is not working ------------ Maybe calling a servicing company at this point is not such a bad idea. Charlie I suspect if you look at the label on the fuel pump the big number across the center will be A2VA-7116. If so (or any other Suntec model begining with 'A') the screens are readily available. Just follow Charlie's instructions for changing. If it is another pump, post the make model. One of us will be able to tell you about the screen. Before installing a new nozzle, flush the entire fuel system with clean oil. well had the tech come. started by cleaning the pump screen which wasnt that bad he said. then readjusted the electrodes and noticed the nozzle. even though the boiler said 85-80b and thats what the old nozzle was and the one i replaced it with he said it was wrong. reason being is my pump runs at 140 so i was over firing the system. replaced it with a 75-70b i think or around their. adjusted the airvent thing from 8 to around 7 to get the flame right. sytem fired right up after that and has been fine since. hopefully this is the end for this system for now. thanks for all your help. What were the combustion numbers ? CO2 ? O2 ? CO ? smoke ? stack temp ? or did he mumble something like Arghhhh, that's a sharp flame! as he adjusted 'by eye', and slipped his crescent wrench back into his greasy coveralls and left ? I'm surprised no one suggested testing the ignition transformer. This sounds like a classic example of a failing transformer. Pete arrgh! Just noticed it was suggested. I keep seeing the ads and assume I reached the LAST post in the thread; I didn't scroll down past them and missed some other suggestions. I keep seeing the ads and assume I reached the LAST post in the thread; Ads? Is there advertising in these threads? The only ads I saw were between posts 1 2. Kit352: I think your service person has made an error. I just looked at the Beckett OEM Spec Guide it lists no Utica boilers using a .75x70є 'B' nozzle. It does, however, list several using a .85x80є 'B'. A .85gph nozzle at 140# will yeild 1.0 gph. as far as the transformer goes he did the secret test and said it was fine. that alone was worth the cost of the service cause i wasnt gonna do it. as far as the nozzle goes it seems to have fixed it. the boiler says 85x80b and that was what i replaced it with. he said it was to much at 140 which i thought was weird but who was i to argue. he switched to the 75x70b nozzle and said it had too much air so he closed the vent from 8 to about 7. as far as testing things he didnt he just looked at the flame and said it was or wasnt right. he cleaned the pump screen so i could see it and purged the system also. checked the cad cell and flame retention ring. those are the only changes he made. i was with him the entire time. seems to be running fine though. the original flame was hitting the back of the chamber and he said that was bad. i guess time will tell if he was right but for now its working and he didnt do much other than the nozzle. I can understand reducing the nozzle size from .85 to .75 but he should have stayed with the 80є. The angle change probably won't make that much of a difference but the manufacturer specs an 80є. And if the flame were too long with an 80*, wouldn't it be a bit longer with the 70* ? arghhhh... I ain't got no 80's left... think I'll throw a 70 in there ... arghhhh, they're all the same anyway .... Well, let's see here. Using advanced mathematical skills, 75 x 80 + CO2 = ? YEA OK! A x B OEM YEA, WE'LL TRY A 60* arghhhh, they're all the same anyway .... Suggestion: If it stays running with no smoke and you are getting heat right now, AND are on a very limited budget, live with it until the winter is over. At that time your heat bill will be less and maybe you can get a REAL oil burner technician in to do a REAL service call. Like I said before, it's going to be about $250-$300+ for the service and it should take about 2-3 hours if done correctly. If a guy shows up with spanking clean white coveralls and a big fancy van with an 'on board vacuum' and a fancy name, tell him to go to Starbucks and get some breakfast and you will call somebody else. Stick it out, as long as you are not getting CO in the house (I hope you have a detector) and fix it after the cold weather when you have some loot! Good Luck! Charlie well the problem came back 23hrs and $110 later. said maybe the transformer was bad after all and replaced it with a new style ignitor thats puts out 14k and replaced the old electrodes and cad eye. seems fine 10hrs later. also adjusted the flame a bit more towards the 8 side. it wasnt a problem with the service guy not having the nozzles i bought a box of them as spares which are apparently now useless as well as a brand new transformer which was the old stlye like i had. i didnt pay a lot for the spares so its not to bad but im still not sure im getting the right service here. their are only a few companies that service my area and hes from the one i get my oil from. the original guy i had gotten a few months ago from the other company railroaded me on costs and only did half the job. this is why i wanted to do it my self, cant really trust anyone. last visit and parts was around $200, i couldve walked into home depot and bought a whole new burner unit and installed it my self for $20 more. hopefully no more issues. Kit352: I have some questions which may or may not have been asked answered previously but for the sake of a recap hopefully further proper diagnosis: (1) Will the burner refire if you just reset it without wiping the nozzle? (2) If the boiler has any kind of flame observation window or door, does the flame look any different after it has been running for 3-5 minutes than it does 5-10 seconds after ignition? If so; how is it different? (3) Any smoke or unusual sound when the burner fires after a reset as opposed to if it fires on it's own? (4) Do you have an ohm meter know use it? here ya go grady- 1-sometimes it will refire just by hitting the reset button. if it doesnt fire on that cycle (about 1 min) i shut the power off and open the door and wipe the nozzle. starts immediately every single time after that. 2- it did look different at first with the old nozzles. the flame was all jagged and little balls of fire were shooting off the side. with the new nozzle (70b) its a much smaller flame and quiter, more of a cone look too. i havent looked at the flame from start to finish of the burn cycle to see if it looks different. 3-when i reset it smoke always comes out of the cracks. id assume its from the previously unfired oil. the blower also start about 2-3 secs before the light with the old transformer. new one starts immediately on start cycle. 4-yes i have an ohm meter and can use it. I guess you went back and read post #8. Oh well, sometimes cheaper is more expensive. There may still be an oil flow problem though. A new burner won't fix that! It is kinda like buying a cheap car. The price is cheap, but not really. Do you know what I mean? Charlie
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I had a new Trane XV90 Gas furnace installed in my home in the spring of 2003. Since the install I have had the inducer replaced 7 or 8 times, 4 times alone since November 2010. I never really worried about this because my Trane furnace came with a 10 year parts and labor extended warranty so I wasn't being charged anything for the repairs. Now I'm beginning to worry, I just had the Inducer replaced again yesterday and I realized that if this problem continues, I'm going to soon be on the hook for the repair charges associated with this issue and it's not cheap. Does anyone have any idea as to why this may be happening? What can I do at this point? I contacted my HVAC contractor, they are the same ones that installed the unit and have done all the repairs. They said that they're no longer a Trane dealer but they would still call them to see if there is anything they can do. I think I'm going to start a letter writing campaign and blanket the entire Trane company. I was hoping that maybe they would extend the warranty out another period of time just for the inducer. I don't expect them to cover anything else because I know things are probably going to start going out on a 9 year old furnace. Has anyone else had this issue and what if anything should I expect from Trane? Thanks! What have been the symptoms of the problem ascribed to the inducer motor? what is the model number of the furnace? Has the furnace had the upgrade kit put in? The model number of the furnace is: TDY100R9V4W. Also the upgrade kit was installed in 2010 and we have had the inducer go out 3 times since that change. The symptoms are that the furnace starts to make a loud whining noise and growls like a bearing is going out. Also, the furnace seems to labor and struggle to get going going. Sometimes when the furnace is turning on it will start up and shut down like 30 times before it will actually start. It starts going for 15 seconds and then stops for 15 seconds and repeats that for 5 or 10 minutes all the time sounding like a wounded animal that needs to be put out it's misery. Also when this is happening, I get the red blinking light, 3 flashes and then a break over and over. Right now the furnace is working great and is whisper quiet but that's because the inducer was just replace a few days ago. I'm worried that in 2-6 months and I'm going to start having the same problems all over again. your contractor needs to call tech support to determine the cause of the multiple inducer failures. It may be a board problem sending bad voltage, it may be a slow drain that is causing excessive condensate in the inducer. One thing I'd due is to check that the correct voltage is being applied to the inducer motor when those symptoms are occurring. Seattle that may be hard as it is a variable speed DC motor. The control is in the main control board. Oh Kay. Hmmm. Sounds like all the more reason to try to identify what voltage should be applied, though. A circuit board that isn't providing the proper voltage might wind up damaging an inducer motor after a while. But I'm just guessing. I've never seen THAT MANY repeated failures of a part, but there's a first time for everything. because the voltage will vary to change the speed of the inducer, there is no way to know what the actual voltage should be. the control board varies the inducer speed based upon 2 items, 1: what stage the furnace is firing in, 2: what voltage or speed at which the pressure switch has closed and or opened at. Have your contractor get to the root cause of all the inducer failures! Inducers don't fail that often unless there is an underlying cause.
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I recently purchased a Climatouch CT03TS32H programmable thermostat. It's a pretty nice unit that really does a lot more right now than I need, but I'd like to go ahead and hook it up before I start messing with the humidistat and ext temp input. I'd appreciate if someone in the know could help make sure I'm hooking the wires up to the right inputs. Furnace: Lennox AC: Lennox Here is the Climatouch units inputs. I had to write in the letters so that it was easier for everyone to read. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/BQuicksilver/Climatouch.jpg Here is the wiring on our current thermostat. It looks like I have 4 wires (R, W, G, Y) and one wire that connects RH and RC. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/BQuicksilver/Sears.jpg I was thinking this would be my layout on the new thermostat: - R to RC and RH (same as old unit) - G to G (same as old unit) - W to W1 (?) - is this for the heater - Y to Y1 (?) - is this for the AC compressor You have it right. Turn the power off first so you dont short the transformer. R is power so you need the jumper from RC too RH G is fan W is heat and Y is cool. Be sure and read all the papers that came with it and be sure and set it like it said . keep the paper works Well, I wired it up, and the unit looked wonderful. I was setting the date/time and then it started making a clicking sound about 2x/sec and the furnace seemed to be making an attempt at turning on. Next thing I know it's completely dead. I fear the worst, what happened? I did come across this in the troubleshooting section, but it was over my head. Maybe there is something here? Issue: Thermostat appears normal until the screen becomes blank when the compressor or heating system turns on Solution: You need to connect the C wire. 4 wire systems will not function unless the heat and compressor contactors can supply enough current to power the thermostat with only 4 wires. If you cannot hook up the C wire another possible solution is to connect two 100ohm 10watt resistors in the HVAC room, one between Y and C, and the second between W2 and C. Sounds like you got a power stealing t=stat... You will need to pull another wire or maybe got one behind the wall? And wire C at the t-stat and furnace. Otherwise, if you can't do the wire, then go to radio shack and get the resister (Unless they provide them with the t-stat?) Install that as they said in the manual. There are a couple more wires stuffed behind the thermostat that were not being used, but I'm not sure ID which one is C. The Climatouch automated tech support line described my problem verbatim and said that C needs connected. The unused wires behind my thermostat aren't marked, so it isn't as easy as ID'ing the blue wire. Is there a way to ID by voltage? My furnace has an old unused humidifier, so I assume at least one of the two wires is for it. Pull a wire.. (Blue) out of the wall, and wire that to C. Then go down to the furnace, and you should have blue wire hanging there or wrapped up. tie that to C on the board.. Make sure you turn off power when do this. I did find a wire with blue cloth insulation pushed back into the wall, and wired it to the blue wire from the furnace and C terminal, but the thermostat still did nothing after I kicked the breaker back on. Any ideas? I feel like I need to have my voltmeter and wire tracer out, but I'm really not sure what to look for. The wire tracer confirmed that I have continuity from furnace to thermostat. I did notice that the furnace had a blue AND dark blue wire coming from it. Neither made the thermostat wake up. I took a voltmeter and no voltage was registered on any of the wires coming into the thermostat, including red and blue wires. Ideas? It's getting cold here. I'm assuming the issue is a lack of power to the unit, but have no idea what the root of this issue might be. Update again. Power 15A was getting to furnace, pilot light (i think that's the term - the small blue flame) was running inside the furnace so I assume it's not a gas issue (Lennox Furnace). I could not get any voltage on the small wires coming out of the furnace. I assume something in the transformer gave up...I assume. Does anyone have some high yield advice for what to look at now? Transformer had 120in, nothing out and stunk like it was fried. I'm not really sure what I did that fried it. I wired with power off, and when it fired up there was no drama until the furnace tried to kick on...then the clicking started. Did you ring out the blue you used for common at the furnace at the tstat??? R to that blue gave you 24V?? Originally Posted by Ed Imeduc Did you ring out the blue you used for common at the furnace at the tstat??? R to that blue gave you 24V?? I think the transformer was fried way before I ever found the blue wire. No juice was coming from either red or blue. I'm still not sure exactly why the transformer died. Since nobody in town would sell one to a DIYer I just called an HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) and said to come over with one in hand. I'll probably get the inspection and double-check the wiring while he's here. I couldn't sit in the cold and wait for one to show from EBay or wherever. When you first wired up the t-stat, did you turn off the power? if you got a burnt smell, you may of shorted out the transfromer. Keep us posted on what the guy finds for you. Well, we're up and running now. I did turn off power before wiring, but the transformer was also fried. The problem was that some of the 24V wires were connected improperly on the transformer side, so while I was conecting things to the correct color terminals everywhere, some of the wires weren't what they should have been per the color...notably Y and C. I believe this caused a transformer failure early on and then from that point nothing I did mattered without any power from the transformer. Somehow this wiring setup worked fine with the old Sears T-stat we had, but not with the new unit. Problem solved, but I'm $133 poorer. Well, It could of been worse... But glad to hear you are back up and running. some of the wires weren't what they should have been per the color...notably Y and C. I believe this caused a transformer failure early on Thats what got you. That Y is hot or the same as R when calling. So if it got near C then you have a dead short to the transformer I ca not completely hook up my new Honeywell RTH5001B thermostat. The wires on the old thermostat are B,R,G,W2,Y,X and E. The spots on the new thermostat are Rc,R,Y,NOT USED,W and G. Can anyyone help? Thank You in advanced. Originally Posted by ckhamm1976 I ca not completely hook up my new Honeywell RTH5001B thermostat. I can't find that model #. 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We are building built-in cabinets in our basement and want to buy unfinished oak cabinet doors for them. There are many Internet sites that sell custom sized doors, however, does anyone know of a site or Chicago-area store that sells cabinet doors in stock sizes to DIYers, not just to contractors. As we are building the cabinets ourselves we can make the boxes to fit the door sizes. We want to avoid the 3 week wait with ordering custom doors. I can't help you with the Chicago area (c'mon down to Charleston it's nice down here) but I do have a commercial company that I personally think is the best out there. We've ordered several thousand dollars worth of cabinet doors from them, completely finished and also completely unfinished. They are always right on with quality and looks. We're only a two man shop and don't have time to make a kitchen full of doors when we need them, and Conestoga is ready and waiting. Yes there is a wait, but I doubt three weeks for a handful of doors. You can also have them finish the doors, which I ****highly***** recommend you let them do b/c I know exactly what kind of finish they use (conversion varnish) and you will not be able to duplicate that kind of durability and look with anything you'll get at any home improvement type warehouse or WalMart. http://www.conestogawood.com/index.cfm?act=faqs The problem with Conestoga is that they only supply to woodworking professionals. I did find a couple of online sites that will supply individuals but it always nicer to see the actual doors beforehand. It turns out that some Home Depots do carry some simple oak doors, but I want ones already bored for concealed hinges. Home Depot and Lowes also have samples and ordering information for a company called Quality Doors and they looked pretty nice. I called several lumber yards and they do not carry cabinet doors. I will have to continue to explore options before I decide. Does anyone have any experience with online distributors that sell to individuals, such as newdoors.com, tapeease.com, or rockler.com? With regards to finish, I want to stain the rest of the cabinets and bookcases with the same stain, so I would want the doors unfinished. I am a cabinetmaker by trade, and have ordered from tapeease.com many times. I never had a bad experience with them. I know they will sell to individuals, as well as small cabinetmakers, such as me. I usually fill out the printable order/quote form, and fax it to the owner - Dave Daus. He will fax or email a quote back to you. Then I call him to place the order. As far as the Home Depot doors, you can always get a local cabinet guy to drill the 35mm holes for concealed hinges for you. http://stores.ebay.com/DOORSANDPULLS...QQftidZ2QQtZkm I've ordered several and they were all great.
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My septic tank alarm went off and the little red light came on the other day. I called a pumper truck and they pulled a lid up and pumped the tank out. They said it was a holding tank. Once the tank was pumped out, I noticed that the little red light was still on. I asked them if it was supposed to go out and they said they didnt know, there were just a pumping truck. I talked with a buddy of mine and he said that there might be a pump in the tank and it may have gone bad, the float switch may be faulty or the wireing may have gone bad. I dont know what to do in this situation. Can someone help me out? It would depend on the type of system you have. If it has an alarm, it should/may have a pump. Do you know if you have more that one tank? It sounds like you may. If you can locate the alarm float or senser, chances are that you will find the pump. Are there more that one breaker for the septic? If so, how many amps are the breaker or breakers rated for? You can try to probe for the 2nd tank, by using a small rod, poking it in the ground going away from the first tank. The lid in the last pic is not that old. I would say 12 years or less. Travis I really have no clue what type of system I have. I bought this house used. I was told to go to the Enviormental Helth department for my county and get a plat of my system. I hvae no clue where my health department is though. I checked my circut breaker panel and I couldnt find anything relating to the septic tank. The county you live in should have or may have a copy of the plans, if it required a permit. Or they may know who installed it. Maybe!! Travis Well my house was built in 2005 so I would think that they should still have a copy of it. My house was built in 1998. I have a septic tank that flows into a second tank. The second tank is a lift station that has a pump that pumps the liquid out to the leach field. Very affective system. But the pump in the bottom of the lift tank corrodes and rust through. It shorts out, pops the breaker and the tank fills up. That is the tank with the float switch that activates the alarm. I have replaced the pump on my system twice. The original pump was a high quality industrial pump that lasted about 5 or 6 years. The first time the pump failed, i ran to Lowes and got a cheap pump for $169 and put it in. Easy replacement. That pump lasted for about 2.5 years and just a couple weeks ago, that pump failed. Again, I ran to Lowes and got the same cheap pump for $179 and installed it. By this time I am getting good at this!!!! I am going to anticipate this next year and buy the good pump and have it standing by when the cheapo pump fails.($279 at Lowes) Lessons learned!! Anyway, both the good and the cheap pumps has a plug but I had to hard wire it since the electrical connection is in a watertight box in the holding tank for the lift station. The plumbing for this is very straightforward. Easy to swap out. Should be PVC flanged fittings. Hope this helps! JChapman in Virginia Beach How do I find the power source to my septic pump and my septic alarm? I looked around the alarm and couldnt find anything and I checked my fues box and nothing on it says anything about a septic or pump. I would bet that there are at least two breakers in the breaker box. You may have to turn them off one at a time till you find it. There should a 15amp for the alarm and a 20 amp for the pump. Do know if you have a septic system or just a holding tank? When they pumped the tank. Were there 2 pipes in the tank? One on one side and one on the other.
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I picked up an older model Coleman 4016 RV Furnace used at an auction the unit has had very little use looks almost new inside out. I bought it to replace an old peerless furnace that was original equipment in my trailer. the peerless furnace looks like a round metal can with a round plate bolted to the bottom that has a single round burner, as well as the thermo couple pilot assy. this unit uses an old honeywell control. the problem I am having with the peerless furnace, is in the cold weather, when the furnace thermostat clicks in sometimes the burner does not ignite right away causing the chamber to fill with propane, the result being a contained explosion within the chamber when it finaly does ignite, the force of the explosion blows out the pilot light so once the trailer reaches temp the thermostat snaps out again, the unit is shut down because the pilot has gone out. I asked about this at an RV supply shop they told me the gas control was worn out, they sold me a new control (as the original honeywell control was no longer available they sold me a different brand control) this new control made the problem worse the contained explosions became more severe so I put the old control back on just used it with the thermostat cranked up full. I was just wondering what causes this problem ? Back to the coleman 4016 I have all the parts for this furnace I have hooked it up to propane tested it, it works fine. however I did not get an installation manual with this furnace I am trying to find information regarding minimum clearence to combustable materials, as the furnace mounts in the bottom of a closet. if anyone knows what the minimum clearence requirements are for these older coleman RV furnaces please pass them along Thanks Roger Hello: Roger The most likely cause for the delayed ignition in the peerless unit is restricted burner ports. The ports are the holes in the burner head. If the burner head is in good condition, cleaning out the holes should correct the condition of delayed ignition. Delayed ignition is when the gas does not light immediately as it comes out of the burner. There are most likely also ignition ports which light the gas from the pilots flame first. These holes will be smaller than the main burner holes and located directly in front of the pilot flame or very nearby. Cleaning them also will correct the delayed ignition. The pilots flame must also be all blue and burning cleanly, no yellow not even in the tip of the flame. A hot burning pilot is essential to allow proper ignition. In reply to the questions for the coleman 4016. I do not know the clearance requirements nor where they can be obtained specifically. To many factors to consider to be positive. Plenty depends on the space the unit will be operated in, the local codes, construction materials in the enclosure the unit will be installed in, the environment the unit will be used in, etc. A visit to your local building and safety department may provide the needed information for general installations. Regards Good Luck, Web Host Multiple Topic Moderator. TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises. Energy Conservation Consultant Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
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Replacing single-pane windows - keep storm windows?
I currently have single-pane windows plus storm windows. Eventually I need to replace the single-pane windows with double-pane for energy savings and comfort. When I do that, should I keep the storm windows or just get rid of them? I'm partially thinking I should just keep them, since they're already in place and it affords an extra layer of protection/insulation. On the other hand, they're inconvenient for cleaning, and I'm not sure how much insulation they really provide. Thoughts? Your single pane windows are essentially double pane because of the two layers. Replacing windows to improve your energy efficiency, IMO, should be reserved for last and if possible, combined with other improvements. The majority of people who go for the windows first are disappointed in the improvements, unless they are like my wife and just wanted new windows in the first place. New windows come in two forms, new construction and replacement style. New construction comes with a completely new frame, but requires that you mess with the outside and inside trim. Replacement windows are ordered to fit inside your existing frames and trim, thus a bit smaller than what you have and although easier, it fails to improve the installation (their perimeter) which is often where a lot of the air leakage is coming from. Some basic numbers. Windows are approximately 20% of your total heat loss. Switch to new double pane windows without the storms and maybe a 25% reduction in what was going out that way. That's 25% of 20% for a net savings of 5% in total heat loss, with a simple payback often in the range of 20 years. Leave the old storms and a little bit better. Window sales people can often come up with much better numbers, I wonder why? I was replacing my siding, so the opportunity to replace the windows made sense and it made the wife happy. They look nice, they tilt for cleaning, and they were installed with foam all around so no extra leakage. Net result is they will save money and I don't plan on moving so long term is just fine for me. Bud I've installed windows for over 20 yrs, and the first thing I will say is that I am not convinced that a double paned window will in ALL CASES out perform a single paned window that has a single paned storm window. (which essentially is an unsealed double pane window, as Bud mentioned) I have seen too many instances where people NEVER had any issues with fogging or condensation, but after they replaced their windows they had a little- which was a surprise because prior to replacing their windows, they had none. This isn't the case in EVERY house I've worked in, but it was true in some. What this tells me is that in some cases- perhaps especially in humid houses- storm windows can be a real benefit to have. If you get new construction windows, you would not be able to reuse your existing storm windows. But if you get replacement windows that go into your existing jambs, as Bud mentioned, IMO the storm window wouldn't hurt as far as giving you a warmer window is concerned. Triple glass is always better than double or single glass. The storm window will provide a buffer for your main window, which will raise the interior glass temperature of your main window, making it feel a little warmer. It can also help with air infiltration on windy days since it will slow the air speed before it gets to your main window. There are potential problems though. 1). you can get fogging between the new window and the storm window. Someone recently was complaining about that in another thread here. Moisture can get trapped between the storm and the window- especially if you caulk your storm windows on (which I never recommend doing). 2). your storm windows will be impossible to remove from the inside. Depending on what type of new window you have, they may also be impossible or at least difficult to clean. In that case, you would have to unscrew the storm window to clean it. 3). if the windows are in direct sunlight, there can be excessive heat buildup in the summer months, which might shorten the life of your IGU (insulating glass units- the sealed double paned glass part of your window). Some mfg's may not warranty their double-paned windows if storm windows are installed over them, you would have to ask them specifically for that warranty information. It's very interesting to take one of those digital laser thermometers and take glass readings on a cold day. On a double pane window, the warmest part of the glass will always be center of glass. This is because on an IGU, the perimeter, or edge is coldest. It's thermally conductive, meaning most of your heat loss occurs on the edge of the IGU as heat radiates from one side of the glass to the other via the spacer material that touches both pieces of glass. This is why they have developed warm edge technology (the word warm being relative, of course) using less conductive materials so that heat loss is minimized. So when you get your new windows, try and ensure that the IGU's will use some type of warm edge spacer material. Swiggle, Intercept, Super Spacer, are some name brands you can look for. They are all superior to plain old aluminum, steel or other metallic spacers. So after your new windows are installed, it would be very easy for you to actually take some center of glass temperature readings with and without a storm window installed. (if you can buy or borrow a laser thermometer... a cheap one is about $20 online) Just keep in mind some of the drawbacks mentioned above. Besides all the good and useful information above, I have a question and a possible problem. You didn't mention the type (double hung, slider, etc.) of window. The problem you might find is that you may not be able to remove the glass inserts from the storm windows for cleaning or repairing a broken glass since the replacement window shrinkes the opening. Leaving the storm windows will ruin the look of new windows.
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Is this very hard to replace? My heat wasn't working and I narrowed the problems down to the circ pump. It wasn't getting voltage, so I bypassed the Aquatsat and hooked the pump up to a cord. I have heat again. Is there some way to further test the Aquastat. It is a Honeywell aquastat relay type L8148A. thanks No, not terribly difficult if you have reasonable electrical and mechanical skills. With that aquastat, if there is a heat call and the burners fire, and the pump don't run, and you have no voltage at C1 and C2, there's really only one thing it can be... If you are doing it when it is cold outside, I would recommend having a spare well on hand or at least know where you can get one immediately if you need one. Mine was so corroded that I had to drain the boiler and replace the well. In case you don't know it, the well screws into the boiler and the relay probe fits in that well. Looking at the schem of my L8148A, it appears that the B (blue) terminal on the high limit is the same as the C1 (but on the other side of the relay ). Could be useful in a pinch, but I wonder if the extra current (burner plus circulator(s) now) would end up killing the relay entirely. One could set up an outboard relay using B (on the high limit) and C2 feeding it, then the circ(s) on a separate 110v feed from that. (Note: I havent tried this, this is only an assumption from the given schematic , so only test this if you know what you're doing, pre/post test connections and observations etc.) At least it would save ripping the aquastat/well out during the heat season ?? I have been having a problem with the boiler not coming on when the thermostats call for heat. When It first happened I turned the power switch to the boiler off and back on and the circulator pump came on and then the boiler fired up. This just started doing this, and at different times I will have to do the same thing to get the boiler to kick back on. When it does come on, the house heats up fine. Is it most likely the aquastat relay or could it be something else? Thanks
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i'm thinking about refinishing my kitchen cabinets, but i'm alittle unsure on go about it. they are about 20 years old and made of solid wood... although i have no idea what kind of wood. they have been stained a dark stain but because they are old and in the kitchen... the stain has worn in some areas and is also pretty dirty in other areas. what i'd like to do is not have to strip the wood. it would be such a 'pita' to have to do this, so i'm trying to get advice on if i can get away with finishing ontop of this stain... and if so, how can i do it? i found a minwax stain and poly in one at home depot that almost matches my current stain perfectly. so i was thinking about using some product to clean the wood really good... then using this minwax over the top. would this work? if so, what product to you suggest for cleaning the cabinets before applying the minwax? also, how much of the old stain will show through using the minwax stain and poly in one? will the cabinets take one more of the new stain color, or will the old stain leak through and be more dominant? i was thinking about applying probably two coats of the minwax stain and poly in one... then going back over that with just the poly... either one or two more coats of that. would that be a good idea to further seal it with just poly?... or is that overkill? and lastly, what type of poly do you suggest for kitchen cabinets... satin or gloss? i was thinking satin... but i prefer gloss... although i'm afraid that gloss would be too overbearing. thanks for any help and suggestions. they are very much appreciated Clean the cabinets with TSP. Applying the mix will make the dark somewhat darker. After a second coat, it all may come together. You are adding a fixed quantity over a variable surface, some wear worse in some areas than in others. You may get variable results. What you are doing is more akin to painting than staining. I like gloss for cabinets, but every has a preference. They are your cabinets. The poly in the mix will usually be enough protection. I would apply at least two, preferably three coats. Poly goes on thin, and cabinets get a lot of wear. If you get the color you want, apply extra coats of just poly to get the protection you want. Hope this helps. is TSP a brand or type of specific product? and can i purchase it at home depot? thanks TSP is trisodium phosphate. Usually it is available at HD and lowes and such. Potent cleaner - degreaser. Again.....I would suggest looking into purchasing an Antiquing Kit. It will cover much better. thanks phantom for the suggestion... but what will the antiquing kit do for me? i'm not familiar with this kit, but am very interested in learning more. what are the benefits of this versus refinishing it with the stain and poly in one? thanks again. Contact your local Paint Suppliers.They may have to order it for you.Hopefully they are still available.But if not,they should be able to give you the instructions to make your own Antiquing Kit. Some years ago,I did purchase such a kit just to try it out.It came with two paint colors.One dark and one lighter.Also it included a graining tool which was used to create a fake grain.The idea was great,because you could apply to to most anything.The paint colors were real thick,and they covered very well.If I remember right,I applied the dark color first.Let it dry,then applied the lighter color ,then used the graining tool to make my grain.As I moved the tool over the wood,it revealed some of the darker color thus making the grainI experimented with newspaper made into a ball and also stiff plastic brushes.I'm sure there are other things you can use to make your grain.I am not sure what type of paint it was,but your paint supplier should know.An antique Dealer or Craft Store or Decorator may know.Some one on this forum may know.I have seen some furniture that was finished using an Antiquing Kit,and you had to look real close to notice that it was faked grain.I don't beleive in finishing over a finish,BUT...If I had to...This is the way I would go... PloyShades is about the worst piece of **** that you can use on wood for finishing. It leaves it very streaky and if you don't apply it in time it will also gum up and look. ew PolyShades was meant for the weekend warior who doesn't know anything about finishing wood. It's well worth learning use Oil Based Stains and Minwax Polyurathane after you apply the stain. READ THE DIRECTIONS! sweet... thanks again phantom... i'm defenitley going to look into that. The Antiquing Kit I was talking about is not a poly shade.I personally don't have any use for poly shade.It's a joke...and it should be removed from the market.I don't use it and I sure don't recommend it...I have seen furniture with fake grain applied,especially to factory finished inferior furniture,and unless you don't know any better,you could be fooled...I do not beleive in taking short cuts either...BUT...Unfortunally people don't want to spend the time to do it the right way.I believe if the antiquing is done correctly it will offer the lay man an alternative.And the person who started this trend should at lease check it out.. We live in such a fast paced world now, that at times it makes it hard to be able to take the time to do things the right way. Me, being a custom furniture manfuactuer, my house is like the old sayings go. A painters house is never painted A shoe makers children never have shoes And so on. I'm a one person shop in 3,500 sq ft and It makes it very hard for me to find time to not only do projects for my home, let alone time to myself. I don't care how LITTLE time I have, I will NEVER and I mean NEVER use Poly Shades They should have called it Cheap Ways Not Poly Shades Everyone wants the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to do things, but when it looks like garbage, they all complain and ask WHY?
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I am installing my first floated floor. I purchased Thomasville from Home Depot. Thomasville instructions said to use a good PVAc glue. I called them and they said to use Roberts 1406. Well nobody has it and I called Roberts and it's discontinued. I have started my installation with Franklin's Titebond II. Can I continue with this? Occasionally I have trouble getting the planks all the way together. Is that from too much glue? Thanks for any help you can provide. Welcome to the DoItYourself.com forums Not a pro here, but since no one responded yet, Roberts 1406 is probably what they recommend. The instructions call for a good PVAc glue. Titebond II IS a PVAc glue so you'll be fine with that. One issue you might be seeing is the hydraulic action of the glue, if you’re compressing the glue in the groove and it doesn’t have an escape route gaps will appear one you release your hold pressure. I’d suggest place a bead of glue on the upper and lower portions of the groove and resist the urge to squirt lots of glue into the bottom of the groove. As for moisture content. I'd suggest you dry to wood, sticker it, leave it for a while and then cut your TG. The flooring will acclimate to the local environment and as a result you’ll have minimal movement post install. One thing you might not have thought about is your end cuts, this often overlooked. Gaps in a floor always look terrible, they seem to look worse when they’re at the end of the board. As a result make sure you have a nice clean 90 degree cut at the end. Don’t worry about end matching, unless you have big swings in moisture levels (live near the great lakes, costal etc.) you’ll be fine not end matching on a narrow floor. If you’re going above 8” you should think about face nailing the flooring anyway. Use a good filler to close out any gaps, I like Timbermate due to their variety of colors. No, it is called the used of strap clamps!!! So is the compression from the tapping not enough to keep the floor boards from seperating at the T and G joint? Is the glue just to prevent separation?
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