Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Kenmore 80 series washer wont spin

Kenmore 80 series washer won't spin


Our Kenmore series 80 (model #110 92282800) won't spin or even budge slightly in a spin cycle. It will fill, agitate and drain as normal. The coupler was replaced a few years back and is functioning during the spin cycle, however the clutch housing is not spinning. With the machine off I can reach the clutch housing and there is 1-2 inches of rotational play, which seems excessive to me. If I turn the clutch housing to either extreme in this rotational range and run the spin cycle it will shudder ever so slightly then go completely still. With the machine off I have turned the basket by hand and have observed the clutch housing turn with it leading me to believe that the connection from the clutch to the basket (drive block) is ok. I looked for the tell tale oil 6 up on the inside of the cabinet and there is nothing. We do have oil seeping (maybe 2 teaspoons worth on floor) from around the gearcase input shaft that has left a line consistant with having be spun off from the coupler. The top half of the gearcase is dry and clean. I suspect a failed gearcase. Any thoughts or advice on this would be very appreciated. The play in clutch is normal. Take the water pump off motor (leave hoses attached) try in spin cycle, If cabinet is off you will have to jump lid switch.(2 wires not colored green) if spins you have a sock stuck in water pump. Most likely will have to be replaced, very seldom can I get sock out. Keep us posted please. Thank you. I will give that a try and report back later today. I pulled the pump and tried a spin cycle. The motor ran and the motor to gear case coupler was turning, but the basket was not spinning. Since the machine does fill and the pump does drain the water, and it does agitate, I'm still thinking that there is something wrong with the gear case on the spin cycle. Again, thanks for your advice on this issue. Inside cabinet about 6 inches up do you see a streak of oil? If there you need a gearcase top seal and clutch, If not there gearcase is bad or you might have something stuck under basket. No oil streak, so I'm off to get a new gearcase. Thanks for all your help. I'll post the results of the gearcase install, hopefully in the next week or so. Looking forward to having this old machine back up and running. You sound very handy you can rebuild your own gearcase, Google whirlpool gearcase and several sites will come up with parts a a do film. One last thing to check before Gearcase, take out basket and see if a towel or something got under it. Not usual but I have seen it. You have to take off agitator anyway so it is just the big nut on top of shaft to take off. This is follow up on my problem with a Kenmore series 80 washer that would not spin. I ended up ordering a gearcase from PartsDr.com on 1-14-12 and it arrived at my doorstep 1-18-12 which I felt was a fast delivery given that there was a weekend in the mix. Also, their price was the best of all the online sites I checked. They get a big thumbs up from me. After reviewing a number of videos on YouTube (DIYAPPLIANCEREPAIR, RepairClinic and theapplianceman were the best) I felt ready to tackle the job of replacing the gearcase. Taking my time, I was able to complete the swap in just under an hour and was quite pleased to see the basket spin right up on the initial test. Two loads of wash later, I can say that our 19 yr old washer is washing clothes like new. One thing to note for others who might be facing the same repair is that I opted to remove the cabinet so I would have a better view of things and easier access. It's easier than you would think, just check out the youtube videos. Also, I did lean the machine backwards to accommodate the agitator shaft. Finally, I would like to thank this site's Forum Topic Moderator, pugsl, for guidance on the repair and the folks who produced and posted the helpful youtube videos. I figure I saved at least $200 by doing it myself. thanks for the follow up, always nice to know we helped Kenmore Washing Machine Grinding Noise - YouTube I have the same issue... See video. Agitates, Fills, Drain etc... but when it comes to spin time... GRIND. Check out the video and let me know what you think... Gearcase? Make sure that it is agitating, If it is you need a gearcase if not than you need a drive coupler. Most likely the drive coupler is bad. Drive coupler cracks and will not agitate or spin. Hello- I am new to this forum- I have a 2004 vintage series 80 washer, that will fill, agitate (I verified this), pump out, and it sounds like the motor is running while its trying to spin, but nothing (I pressed down on the door switch) to verify this ( I also replaced the door switch about 1 month ago), so that's not it. It will not even spin under no load (empty). When I release the door switch, the brake does engage the drum, and it will shudder momentarily, and make the normal brake sound. We have been having problems for some time with the washer not spinning all the water out, resulting in multiple spin cycles to get it wrung dry as possible. I live about 90 minutes from the nearest Sears store in rural Montana, and if I have to buy a new gearbox for $150, then I might as well buy a new washer-I also cannot spend several trips back and forth swapping out possible bad parts- Whats wrong? is it the gear box? the clutch? Please help. Thanks! Tilt washer back against wall and look under it. About 6nches up around cabinet see if there is a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler. The most likely reason for no spin if it agitates is that the drive coupler broke. I would repair your washer don't think you will like the new one's. Thanks for the quick response- sorry my checking your suggestions have not occurred until this afternoon- I spend alot of time after work responding as a volunteer firefighter/emt and we have been very busy these past few nights with lots of calls, and little sleep... Anyway, I tipped the washer and discovered a oil splatter on the vertical steel support/bracket right next to the drive unit, plus what appears to be a dried up oil spill on the tile underneith the washer- so am I correct that I need to replace the gearbox, seal, and clutch? Thanks again for the first response, and this response in advance. You can replace the top seal in gearcase, Google whirlpool gearcase repair lot of sites will tell you how. Replace clutch and drive coupler also. Seal will save a lot of money. model 110.24852300. the washer will spin with no load or if manually started spinning. the coupler needs to be replaced and the clutch is dirty with what looks like old grease/oil. there is splattering of oil inside the cabinet and over the base. after reading other posts, websites and material, it points to the top seal of gearcase. Is there a part number or diagram showing this? Is this a gasket directly below the clutch on the shaft leaving the gearcase? Or is this seal where the top of the gearcase is screwed to the bottom? If not the top seal, would the drive tube be leaking anything? Thanks so much. I have similar problem. My kenmore washer 80 series agitates, fills, drains but won't spin. When I adjust the drum randomly and rotate manually, it starts spinning normally. Another problem is once it starts spinning, it won't stop. I replaced coupler six months ago, lid switch is working ok. There is no oil coming out from anywhere. Please suggest what should look for and how do I solve these problems. Appreciate all your suggestions. Tilt washer back against wall and look under it. About 6nches up around cabinet see if there is a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler. I know you said no oil but you have told me that is what you have. Don't know of anything else. My Kenmore 80 series (model #110 23832 100) operates fine to the pump stage and then regularly will not switch to spin cycle and continues to pump. It will continue pumping after the basket is dry, pumping only thru also the spin cycle (without spinning) until advancing either to the next cycle fill or off depending on if it is the first or second cycle. I have found that if I open the lid and reclose it during the pump phase, I hear the cycle change and the spin cycle engages. When not spinning this action always engages the spin cycle. Any advice/knowledge on this one? Listen through the spin cycle, there should be a pause about 1/2 through, this is where the transmission shifts to spin (open lid does same thing) If no pause need a timer. (I have never heard of one doing what your's is.) Unfortunately the machine wont go into spin action unless while the evacuation pump is going I open and close the lid, at that time the spin will start, then shortly afterwards the break engages stopping the tub with a short pause, then after the short break simultaneously the spin starts again and the rinse water turns on. The water remains on and then shuts off with the spin continuing until the next stage comes up. Does this give any helpful clues? Not understanding what you are saying. Any time the washer is in spin drain pump will be on (pump is mounted on motor and any time motor turns pump turns.) way it works is first motor starts and drain pump is going (no spin) when a slight pause and motor starts, pump runs and spins. Small amount of water enters on some machines, water stops and continues spinning for a few minutes. You might have a oil leak Tilt washer back against wall and look under it. About 6 inches up around cabinet see if there is a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler.








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