Mortar Shower Pan
I had some water issues with my pre-fab shower stall. I've ripped out the old and I'm trying to rebuild for tiling. I've laid the first layer of sand/cement mix with a slope. I've done quite a bit of research to complete this project, but I'm struggling to get consistent answers on a few questions. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I'm not sure how precise everything needs to be. Many pictures and videos on the web don't give a good closeup to compare my work. Overall, I'm trying to gain confidence in my work to this point and decide whether I should move forward or take a step back. 1) I know your supposed to use a sand mix for the pitched mortar beds with a 5 to 1 ratio. The home stores have products specific to tile baths, but I've heard many say using a Quikrete sand/topping mix works well. At a fraction of the cost, I chose to go with the Quikrete. Is this an acceptable approach? I'm trying to get this settled before I move on. As much as I don't want to rip out what I've done, better now than later. 2) This is my first experience using a sand mix. I used a pre-pitch installation kit, which consisted of plastic strips with a built-in slope to assist with troweling the sand topping/mix. I'm confident that my slope rises a 1/4 per foot from the drain to the wall. However, I'm not sure if I should be concerned if there are small areas that slope less. I've read that your level bubble will be about halfway on the line to indicate a 1/4 slope. I have areas that still have a slope, but not that much. Is this something I should be concerned with? 3) Like I said, this was my first time troweling a sand mix. Now that the base has dried, the surface is not as smooth as I expected it to be. This is also leading to some of the lesser sloped areas mentioned in #2 above. I don't know if this is natural working with this type of product or if this is a reflection of my inexperience. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any comments to assist me with this project. Quickcrete will work fine. It's a little richer (more cement) than 5 to one. The preslope is not that critical, did you lay a straight edge across it to check for dips? As for as smoothness, you can get a rubbing stone or even a brick to smooth out rough surfaces, you just want to make sure that the surface is not to rough as to poke a hole in the liner. Sounds like you're doing fine. Quickrete Sand/Topping Mix is 3:1, use it as is or add some sand to make it more workable. Actually the official recommended blend for a shower base is 4:1, 5:1 is for general floor applications. It's not a life-or-death issue. The pre-slope does not have to be consistent, just make sure the drain is the lowest spot. When finishing the deck mud be sure to compact the mud by beating it with your wooden float, then finish with a cement finishing steel trowel. Jaz I agree with JazMan. Do not use the premix mortar stuff. Buy the sand and the portland, mix it up in the tub with a hoe. Not too wet. Trust me I know. I used the premix and had to tear it all out because it didn't set properly. I've used the pre-pitch system and like it. Good for folks that don't do this work very often like me. The other thing I do is lay down the Kerdi over the mortar. Some may say it isn't necessary but it isn't that expensive and pretty much makes the floor water tight. Technically you should use it on the entire shower stall. Starting with the floor then the walls overlapping the floor. In my case we bought a new home that required some fixes. Two shower floors were not done right (poor slope) but the walls were fine so I just redid the floors. Haven't had any leaks and both are over areas that I can check from below to see if there are any leaks. Thanks for your responses. I've finished the pan and feel very good about the end product. I've moved on to the curb and I used two thin steel lathe pieces stacked to form around the curb shape and on top of the rubber membrane. I then used the Quikrete Sand Topping/Mix to form. It's completely dried at this point. My observations at this point are that the shape and slope are as I intended, but that it appears to be fragile. If I push down on the top right side, there's a slight give as if there's a slight gap between the steel lathe and the rubber membrane (or between the wood and rubber membrane). Is this normal? I'm concerned with having tile and/or grout issues once I install over this curb. Should I be concerned? Do I need to redo? Is there anything I need to do to make this more sturdy? Hello lbs01s Would you mind sharing how you resolved the lack of smoothness of your deck mud? I am having the same issue. I am happy w/ the slope, but not the smoothness. I would like to correct it before placing the kerdi membrane. I am concerned the rough surface could puncture the membrane causing water leaks. Thanks much I lost track of this thread otherwise I would have commented on the condition of his curb. In your case, just mix up some thin set and skim the deck mud. This will make it smoother and also fill any small valleys. So. you're doing a Kerdi shower, how's it going? Jaz Thanks JazMan Yes I am going kerdi because the shape of my shower makes it very difficult to fold the PVC liner. Have you used Kerdi? But I am only getting now to the kerdi part. I just did the deck mud and embedded the drain in it. I am trying to get it smoother so I can put the membrane on it. I was wondering if I first put one coat of unmodified thinset on the deck mud first to smooth it out, wait for it to dry, only then put thinset again to attach the membrane to the floor. Would that work? I rather do it in two steps so I have a chance to inspect the surface before putting the membrane. Thanks Originally Posted by jemhunter Yes I am going kerdi because the shape of my shower makes it very difficult to fold the PVC liner. Have you used Kerdi? Matter of fact I have. I was one of the first, (if not the first), independent tile guy to use Kerdi Ditra for residential project where an architect didn't specify them, in this area. It was a hard-sell at first much of the time. It costs more of course. Find a few albums here; https://picasaweb.google.com/101434355976808740925 I was wondering if I first put one coat of unmodified thinset on the deck mud first to smooth it out, wait for it to dry, only then put thinset again to attach the membrane to the floor. Would that work? That's how you do it, right. Jaz
Related Posts:
Pre slope under shower pan liner
Pre slope under shower pan lineri have a 30' x 60 shower bottom that needs to be presloped under the pan liner. I have done this pre slope using deck mud in the past I have a friend who is a tile...
Linoleum shower walls
linoleum shower walls?I cant decide on which shower system I want to use. Tile has its grout issues. Fiberglass scratches and discolors. Even a swanstone shower wall and receptor system still has...
Price pfister single pushpull shower faucet repair help
Price Pfister - Single Push/Pull Shower Faucet Repair HelpOk, in my master shower, the push/pull single lever Price Pfister faucet has been really hard to pull out recently. I'm guessing there is...
Old delta shower faucet need replaced dont know what series it is
Old Delta Shower Faucet, Need Replaced, don't know what series it isI have looked everywhere and after lots of research I still can't figure out what series delta monitor shower faucet I have. The...
Making a walk in shower
Making a walk in showerHi All I am looking for some help here. I am looking on making a walk in shower. It will be about 5' X 6' Could someone tell me exactly on how i can build this. I have a hom...
